One day in BerlinEmpires, walls and ghosts in one day
Start early at the Brandenburg Gate with the Best of Berlin route, which takes in Bebelplatz, Museum Island and the Cathedral on its way to Alexanderplatz. Grab a currywurst without lingering too long. In the afternoon, hop on the S-Bahn to the Reichstag and follow From the Reichstag to the Wall, past the Holocaust Memorial and Checkpoint Charlie. At dusk the mood shifts with Hidden Berlin, from the Humboldt Forum through the Nikolaiviertel to the TV Tower. Finish with an Eisbein in a proper tavern and rest your feet.
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Morning
The best of Berlin: from Brandenburg Gate to Alexanderplatz
- Brandenburg GateBerlin's great symbol and the perfect starting point: this is where Unter den Linden begins.
- BebelplatzAn elegant square with a window in the ground revealing empty bookshelves.
- Lustgarten and Museum IslandAn entire island devoted to art, presided over by Prussia's first public museum and a giant granite bowl.
- Berlin Cathedral (Berliner Dom)The Hohenzollerns' grand imperial church, with a crypt where nearly a hundred members of the dynasty rest.
- Hackesche HöfeEight linked courtyards, Art Nouveau tiles and, next door, a story of courage.
- AlexanderplatzThe square named after a tsar, which inspired a novel and saw East Germany's biggest demonstration.
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Lunch
Try Currywurst at Konnopke's Imbiß. Schönhauser Allee 44B
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Afternoon
From the Reichstag to the Wall: the century that split Berlin
- ReichstagThe building that saw a republic born, a democracy burn and another rise again under a glass dome.
- Brandenburg GateA gate of peace that ended up imprisoned by the most closely guarded border in the world.
- Memorial to the Murdered Jews of EuropeA field of 2,711 concrete blocks that explains nothing… until you walk into it.
- Topography of TerrorWhere the Gestapo and SS had their headquarters, there's now a museum and an original stretch of the Wall.
- Checkpoint CharlieThe border crossing where Soviet and American tanks stared each other down in 1961.
- GendarmenmarktThe square that Huguenot refugees, a philosopher king and Schinkel turned into Berlin's most beautiful.
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Early evening
Hidden Berlin: mummies, ghosts and the Pope's revenge
- Berlin Palace (Humboldt Forum)The Hohenzollern palace was blown up, replaced and rebuilt; its ghost, so tradition says, never left.
- St. Nicholas' Church and the NikolaiviertelThe oldest church in old Berlin guards the city's great riddle: nobody knows when it was born or what its name means.
- Parochial Church (Parochialkirche)Beneath this baroque church lie dozens of Berliners who were mummified by accident.
- Zur letzten Instanz and the medieval wallOne of Berlin's oldest taverns leans on the last remains of its city wall… and on a couple of legends.
- St. Mary's Church (Marienkirche)A Dance of Death painted after the plague, and a stone cross recalling a murder.
- TV Tower (Fernsehturm)The great symbol of atheist East Germany reflects a cross in the sunlight that Berliners dubbed “the Pope's revenge”.
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Dinner
Try Eisbein at Zur letzten Instanz. Waisenstraße 14–16
