Gyeongbokgung Palace

You're in the outer courtyard of Gyeongbokgung, the first and largest palace of the Joseon dynasty. Ahead is Heungnyemun, the second gate; behind it hides the throne hall, Geunjeongjeon, with Mount Bugaksan in the background.

1The palace of blessings

It was built in 1395, three years after the dynasty was founded. Its name, chosen by the minister Jeong Do-jeon, comes from a line in a Chinese classic and is usually translated as "palace greatly blessed by heaven". Sejong reigned here, and Hangul was created here.

In 1592, during the Imjin War, the palace burned and lay abandoned for more than 270 years. The regent Heungseon Daewongun rebuilt it in the 1860s, with more than three hundred buildings. But the new era was short-lived: in 1895 Queen Min was murdered in her quarters at the back of the palace.

2Destroyed and rebuilt

During the Japanese occupation most of the buildings were demolished. Right where you're standing, between 1916 and 1926, the colonial government built its headquarters, a huge stone building that hid the throne hall; Heungnyemun was torn down to make room for it. That building was demolished from 1995, and the gate you see was rebuilt in the early 2000s. The palace's restoration is still under way and will continue for decades.

If you visit inside wearing hanbok, Korea's traditional dress, entry is usually free: check the conditions on the official website.

3What to look for

• The royal guard, in colourful costumes and with banners, who usually change shifts in front of Gwanghwamun Gate.
• Yeongjegyo stone bridge, beyond Heungnyemun, with its guardian animals.
• Bugaksan, the mountain that shields the palace to the north.