One day in AthensFrom the Parthenon to the legends
Start early with “From Syntagma to the Parthenon: the must-see Athens”: from the changing of the evzones to the cathedral, Monastiraki and the Acropolis, before the heat and the tour groups arrive. Have a souvlaki in Monastiraki, then move on to “Before Athens was Athens: theatres, courts and emperors”, which leaves from Hadrian's Arch and passes the Theatre of Dionysus and the Areopagus. As the sun sets, “Curses, dervishes and a prison without a prisoner” links the Little Metropolis with Anafiotika. Finish with loukoumades at Krinos.
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Morning
From Syntagma to the Parthenon: the must-see Athens
- Syntagma Square and the Tomb of the Unknown SoldierA royal palace turned Parliament and a square named after the Constitution wrested from a king.
- Metropolitan Cathedral of AthensThe great church of the new kingdom, twenty years in the making and, so the story goes, built with stones from dozens of demolished churches.
- Monastiraki SquareA square where a Byzantine monastery, an Ottoman mosque, a Roman library and the metro station all live side by side.
- The AcropolisThe rock where Pericles raised the Parthenon, and which survived a Persian fire, a Venetian explosion and Lord Elgin.
- Acropolis MuseumA glass museum floating above an ancient neighbourhood, with visible gaps waiting for the Parthenon Marbles to come home.
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Lunch
Try Souvlaki and kebab at O Thanasis. Odós Mitropóleos, 69, Monastiraki
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Afternoon
Before Athens was Athens: theatres, courts and emperors
- Arch of HadrianA marble gateway that used two carved sentences to announce that the city of Theseus had a new master.
- Choragic Monument of LysicratesA 2,300-year-old theatre trophy that survived hidden inside a monastery where Lord Byron once stayed.
- Theatre of DionysusThe seats where Athens first watched Oedipus, Medea and Aristophanes' frogs.
- Odeon of Herodes AtticusA millionaire's gift to his wife's memory that still fills with audiences almost two thousand years later.
- The AreopagusA rock polished by millions of footsteps, where murderers stood trial and Saint Paul addressed the Athenians.
- Stoa of AttalosThe shopping arcade of Hellenistic Athens, a king's gift rebuilt in the 20th century with the same marble.
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Early evening
Curses, dervishes and a prison without a prisoner
- The Little MetropolisA tiny church built from some ninety pieces of pagan temples and tombs, a few of them “baptised” with a cross.
- Church of KapnikareaAn 11th-century church in the middle of the shopping street, which nearly fell victim to a straight new street plan.
- Tzistarakis MosqueThe mosque an Ottoman governor built with an ancient column, and the plague Athenians believed was his punishment.
- Tower of the WindsA two-thousand-year-old clock with eight winged gods, which ended up as a place where dervishes danced.
- AnafiotikaA Cycladic village clinging to the Acropolis, which tradition says was built by night to get around the law.
- The so-called Prison of SocratesRock-cut chambers that tradition turned into the philosopher's cell, and that hid the statues of the Acropolis during the war.
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Dinner
Try Loukoumades at Krinos. Odós Eólou, 87
