Day 1Postcards, a museum and shadows
In the morning, “From Syntagma to the Parthenon: the must-see Athens”, from the evzones to the Acropolis Museum. Have a souvlaki in Monastiraki and use the free afternoon for two extras that link up easily from Syntagma: a stroll in the National Garden and the National Archaeological Museum. Head back to the centre for sunset with “Curses, dervishes and a prison without a prisoner”, from the Little Metropolis to the so-called Prison of Socrates. For dinner, loukoumades at Krinos on Aiolou Street.
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Morning
From Syntagma to the Parthenon: the must-see Athens
- Syntagma Square and the Tomb of the Unknown SoldierA royal palace turned Parliament and a square named after the Constitution wrested from a king.
- Metropolitan Cathedral of AthensThe great church of the new kingdom, twenty years in the making and, so the story goes, built with stones from dozens of demolished churches.
- Monastiraki SquareA square where a Byzantine monastery, an Ottoman mosque, a Roman library and the metro station all live side by side.
- The AcropolisThe rock where Pericles raised the Parthenon, and which survived a Persian fire, a Venetian explosion and Lord Elgin.
- Acropolis MuseumA glass museum floating above an ancient neighbourhood, with visible gaps waiting for the Parthenon Marbles to come home.
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Lunch
Try Souvlaki and kebab at O Thanasis. Odós Mitropóleos, 69, Monastiraki
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Afternoon
National Garden
An oasis of shade and ponds beside Parliament, laid out for Queen Amalia in the 19th century. It's the ideal breather after the Acropolis: enter from Syntagma, wander for a while, then head on to the Archaeological Museum.
DirectionsNational Archaeological Museum
The great museum of ancient Greece: the Mask of Agamemnon, archaic kouroi, bronzes and the Antikythera Mechanism. Allow two hours, pick your galleries and take the metro or a taxi from Syntagma, as it's a fair walk away.
Directions -
Early evening
Curses, dervishes and a prison without a prisoner
- The Little MetropolisA tiny church built from some ninety pieces of pagan temples and tombs, a few of them “baptised” with a cross.
- Church of KapnikareaAn 11th-century church in the middle of the shopping street, which nearly fell victim to a straight new street plan.
- Tzistarakis MosqueThe mosque an Ottoman governor built with an ancient column, and the plague Athenians believed was his punishment.
- Tower of the WindsA two-thousand-year-old clock with eight winged gods, which ended up as a place where dervishes danced.
- AnafiotikaA Cycladic village clinging to the Acropolis, which tradition says was built by night to get around the law.
- The so-called Prison of SocratesRock-cut chambers that tradition turned into the philosopher's cell, and that hid the statues of the Acropolis during the war.
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Dinner
Try Loukoumades at Krinos. Odós Eólou, 87
