Day 1Guildhalls, comics and Magritte
Get going early with “Brussels highlights: from the Bourse to the Sablon”, from the Bourse to the Grand-Place and the Petit Sablon garden. Lunch on grey shrimp croquettes in the arcades, then give the afternoon to the Belgian Comic Strip Center and the Royal Museums of Fine Arts at the top of the Mont des Arts. From there it’s a ten-minute walk to the Palace of Justice, where “Brussels in the shadows” begins at dusk. It finishes by the Grand-Place, so have moules-frites on Rue des Bouchers.
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Morning
Brussels highlights: from the Bourse to the Sablon
- The Bourse, a temple over a buried riverA palace of money built where the city’s river once flowed, which now celebrates beer and hides a medieval friary.
- The Grand-Place, the drawing room of BrusselsGuildhalls dripping with gold, a town hall said to be lopsided and a bronze hero everyone rubs so they’ll come back.
- The Galeries Royales Saint-HubertOne of Europe’s first great covered shopping arcades, where the praline was invented and Belgium saw its first film screening.
- The Mont des Arts and its viewpointA terraced garden between the lower and upper town, with the best postcard view of the Town Hall tower.
- Old England, an Art Nouveau gemAn 1899 iron-and-glass department store that now holds thousands of musical instruments.
- The Petit Sablon gardenForty-eight bronze trades stand guard around two counts beheaded on the Grand-Place.
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Lunch
Try Grey shrimp croquettes at Taverne du Passage. Galerie de la Reine 30, Bruselas
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Afternoon
Belgian Comic Strip Center
Tintin, the Smurfs and Spirou in an Art Nouveau building designed by Victor Horta, five minutes from the arcades. It’s the most Brussels of all museums and takes about an hour. Afterwards, look out for the comic-strip murals painted on walls around the centre.
DirectionsRoyal Museums of Fine Arts and Magritte Museum
Next to Place Royale, they bring together the Flemish masters, from Bruegel to Rubens, and a museum devoted to René Magritte. Don’t try to see everything: pick Magritte or the Old Masters. They usually close on Mondays, so check opening times and book in high season.
Directions -
Early evening
Brussels in the shadows: gallows, miracles and a gunshot
- The Palace of Justice and the “crooked architect”A building bigger than St Peter’s in Rome, raised on the old gallows hill and cursed by an entire neighbourhood.
- Notre-Dame du Sablon and the Virgin who came by boatA woman from Antwerp, a vision and a boat that, legend has it, rowed itself all the way to Brussels.
- Notre-Dame de la Chapelle and Bruegel’s drawingsPieter Bruegel the Elder married here and is buried here: the painter who, on his deathbed, asked for some of his drawings to be burned.
- The Manneken Pis, the boy of a thousand legendsHalf a metre of bronze, over a thousand costumes, several thefts and no reliable explanation of why a little boy is peeing on a street corner.
- The Amigo and Verlaine’s gunshotA prison named “friend” through a misunderstanding and, just around the corner, the room where Verlaine shot Rimbaud.
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Dinner
Try Moules-frites at Chez Léon. Rue des Bouchers 18, Bruselas
