Day 1Celtic gold and pub legends
Set off at nine from the Ha'penny Bridge with “Bridges, pubs and Georgian squares”: Temple Bar, Trinity College, St Stephen's Green and Merrion Square. Have an Irish stew at O'Neill's or The Stag's Head, then give the afternoon to the Book of Kells at Trinity and the National Museum of Archaeology on Kildare Street, five minutes apart. If you've time to spare, take a break on Grafton Street. As the light goes, head over to Church Street for “Mummies, a stolen heart and a cat in the organ”, with The Brazen Head and St Patrick's, and finish with fish and chips from Leo Burdock.
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Morning
Bridges, pubs and Georgian squares: Dublin's highlights
- Ha'penny BridgeAn iron bridge cast in England in 1816 that, for a century, cost half a penny to cross.
- Temple BarThe quarter of pubs and live music that, in the 1980s, was nearly flattened for a bus station.
- Trinity CollegeThe university Elizabeth I founded in 1592, where Swift, Wilde and Beckett studied and the Book of Kells is kept.
- Molly Malone statueIreland's most famous seller of cockles and mussels never existed, or at least nobody has ever proved she did.
- St Stephen's Green and Fusiliers' ArchA park opened to the public by a Guinness, an arch some called ‘Traitors' Gate’ and a ceasefire to feed the ducks.
- Merrion Square and Oscar WildeThe Georgian square of coloured doors, where Oscar Wilde grew up and now lounges on a rock.
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Lunch
Try Irish stew at The Stag's Head. 1 Dame Court
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Afternoon
Book of Kells (Trinity College)
This illuminated Gospel manuscript from around AD 800 is Trinity's great treasure. The Old Library is in the middle of a major restoration and the visit has changed in recent years, so book a time slot and check which rooms are open.
DirectionsNational Museum of Ireland – Archaeology
On Kildare Street, next door to Leinster House, it holds Bronze Age gold, the Ardagh Chalice, the Tara Brooch and the unsettling bog bodies. Entry is free; it usually closes on Mondays, so check before you go.
Directions -
Early evening
Mummies, a stolen heart and a cat in the organ
- St Michan's ChurchA plain-looking church whose vaults preserved bodies naturally for centuries.
- The Brazen HeadThe sign says 1198; the records say 1613. In between there are rebels, highwaymen and the odd ghost.
- Christ Church CathedralA cat and a rat trapped in an organ pipe, Strongbow's broken tomb and a saint's heart stolen in 2012.
- St Patrick's CathedralA legendary well of St Patrick, a door with a hole that gave English a saying, and the tomb of Jonathan Swift.
- Whitefriar Street ChurchBehind a modest front on a busy street lie relics attributed to St Valentine.
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Dinner
Try Fish and chips from Leo Burdock at Leo Burdock. 2 Werburgh Street
