Day 1Postcards and shadows
In the morning, “The best of Seville: from Triana to the Plaza de España”, with Triana Bridge, the Giralda, the Alcázar and Santa Cruz. Have spinach with chickpeas at El Rinconcillo, then head south on your free afternoon: the Royal Tobacco Factory and María Luisa Park, right beside the Plaza de España. For the evening, return to the centre by bus or bike: “The Seville of King Peter, Susona and Mañara” starts at Santa Inés and ends at the cathedral. Finish with fried fish, and take your time.
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Morning
The best of Seville: from Triana to the Plaza de España
- Triana BridgeSpain's oldest iron bridge still marks, between its arches, the border between two cities with souls of their own.
- Maestranza BullringA bullring that took over a century to finish, and a gate every bullfighter dreams of being carried through.
- The Giralda and the CathedralAn Almohad minaret crowned with a Renaissance weathervane: the tower that sums up Seville.
- Royal AlcázarA thousand years of palaces behind a battlemented wall, and still the royal family's residence whenever it visits Seville.
- Plaza de Santa CruzA square born from the demolition of a church where Murillo was buried, and whose remains no one has ever found.
- Plaza de EspañaA bench for every province, four bridges, a boating canal and a «Star Wars» set: the square everyone wants to photograph.
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Lunch
Try Spinach with chickpeas at El Rinconcillo. Calle Gerona, 40
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Afternoon
María Luisa Park
A park of shaded circles, fountains and pavilions from the 1929 Expo, donated to the city by Infanta María Luisa Fernanda. Plenty of shade, the Glorieta de Bécquer and the Plaza de América. It sits next to the Plaza de España, where the route ends.
DirectionsRoyal Tobacco Factory
A huge 18th-century building, now home to the University of Seville, where thousands of cigarette makers worked and which is linked to the opera “Carmen”. Its courtyards and staircases are worth a wander, and it sits between the Alcázar and the park.
Directions -
Early evening
The Seville of King Peter, Susona and Mañara
- Convent of Santa InésThe house founded by María Coronel, the noblewoman who, legend says, disfigured her own face to escape a king.
- Calle Cabeza del Rey Don PedroA king promised to display the culprit's head at the scene of the crime. And he kept his word: he put up his own.
- Casa de PilatosA Sevillian palace that, according to tradition, copied the house of Pontius Pilate in Jerusalem.
- Calle SusonaA tile panel recalls the young woman who, legend says, betrayed her own father.
- Cathedral: Columbus's bones and the lizardBehind this door lie the remains of Christopher Columbus… or so the DNA says, because another city claims them too.
- Hospital de la CaridadThe hospital founded by a repentant nobleman who asked to be buried under the doorway so that everyone would walk over him.
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Dinner
Try Pescaíto frito at Freiduría Puerta de la Carne. Calle Santa María la Blanca, 36
