Day 1Markets, towers and the future
Open the day with “The best of Valencia”, from the North Station to the basilica on Plaza de la Virgen, taking in the Central Market and the Miguelete. Have a relaxed paella for lunch. The afternoon is free and goes to modern Valencia: head down into the old Turia riverbed, now a garden, and keep going to the City of Arts and Sciences. Be back in the centre for “Secret Valencia”, which feels different at dusk, from the Cats' House to the Patriarca's dragon. Dinner is horchata with fartons in Santa Catalina.
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Morning
The best of Valencia: from the orange station to the Geperudeta
- North Station (Estación del Norte)A railway station decorated with oranges and orange blossom that has been welcoming people to Valencia since 1917.
- Town Hall SquareThe square of the mascletàs stands on the site of a medieval convent and packs a century of architecture into a small space.
- Central MarketA modernista cathedral of iron, glass and ceramics devoted to food, crowned by a parrot and a swordfish.
- Plaza RedondaA perfect circle from 1840 hidden among narrow streets, on the site of the city's old slaughterhouse.
- The MigueleteThe cathedral's octagonal tower is as tall as its perimeter is long, and owes its name to a seven-tonne bell.
- Plaza de la Virgen and the Basilica of Our Lady of the ForsakenValencia's loveliest square revolves around the Geperudeta, the slightly stooping Virgin who protected the insane and orphans.
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Lunch
Try Paella valenciana at La Pepica. Passeig de Neptú, 6
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Afternoon
Turia Gardens
After the 1957 flood the river was diverted and its dry bed became a very long park around the centre. You can walk or cycle it between bridges and orange trees, and it is the most pleasant way to reach the City of Arts and Sciences.
DirectionsCity of Arts and Sciences
Santiago Calatrava's futuristic complex, with the Hemisfèric, the Science Museum and the Palau de les Arts, floats on sheets of water. Just strolling around the outside is worth it; if you go in, the Oceanogràfic or the museum each take half a day, so pick one.
Directions -
Early evening
Secret Valencia: cats, grails and a dragon
- The Cats' HouseA miniature house at ground level, a plaque bearing the year 1094 and a legend that accuses El Cid of hating cats.
- The Cathedral and the Holy ChaliceInside this cathedral is kept a two-thousand-year-old stone cup that tradition identifies with the Holy Grail.
- The Patriarca and its dragonFor four centuries a stuffed caiman, which Valencians call “the dragon”, has hung at the entrance to this church.
- Palace of the Marqués de Dos AguasValencia's most extravagant doorway fuelled the legend that only a madman could have designed it.
- The Silk Exchange gargoylesTwenty-eight fifteenth-century gargoyles keep watch over the Silk Exchange, and many of them are anything but pious.
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Dinner
Try Horchata with fartons at Horchatería El Siglo. Plaza de Santa Catalina, 11
