Hoàn Kiếm Lake and Ngọc Sơn Temple

You are on the shore of Hồ Hoàn Kiếm, the Lake of the Returned Sword. For Hanoians this is the centre of the city: people exercise here at dawn, stroll in the evening and celebrate the New Year and football victories.

1The Temple of the Jade Mountain

On the islet stands Ngọc Sơn Temple, the "Jade Mountain", built in the 19th century. It is dedicated to Văn Xương, patron of literature and examinations, and to Trần Hưng Đạo, the general who repelled three Mongol invasions in the 13th century. That's why many students come here to ask for luck.

In 1865 the scholar Nguyễn Văn Siêu remodelled the complex: he built Thê Húc Bridge, "where the morning light rests", the Pen Tower and the Inkstone Gate. Brush, inkstone and the sky as paper: an invitation to study.

On Lunar New Year's Eve 1952 part of the bridge collapsed under the crowds heading to the temple; it was rebuilt with concrete piers and a wooden deck.

2A lake for strolling

At weekends the streets around the lake close to traffic and fill with families, musicians and traditional games. It's a good moment to cross at your leisure and sit on a bench facing the water.

3What to look for

• The Pen Tower, with the words "write on the blue sky" carved on its shaft.
• The stone inkstone shaped like half a peach and carried by three frogs, on top of the next gate.
• The red bridge, facing east towards the rising sun.