One day in HanoiA thousand years in a single day
Head out early, while the light is still soft, for “From the iron bridge to the Opera”: Long Biên Bridge, Đồng Xuân Market in full swing and Hoàn Kiếm Lake before the heat kicks in. Have bún chả at Đắc Kim on Hàng Mành and hop in a Grab to the Temple of Literature: in the afternoon, “A thousand years of Thăng Long” carries on through the Imperial Citadel to Ba Đình Square. As the sun goes down, head back to the centre for “Sacred turtles, a magic sword and jailbreaks”, from Hỏa Lò Prison to the White Horse Temple, and eat chả cá on the street named after it.
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Morning
From the iron bridge to the Opera: Hanoi highlights
- Long Biên BridgeAn iron bridge from 1902 that survived the bombing and, despite what you may hear, was not designed by Eiffel.
- Đồng Xuân MarketThe Old Quarter's great covered market, built by the French in 1889 and rebuilt after a fire.
- 87 Mã Mây Ancient HouseA merchants' tube house, restored with help from Toulouse, that shows how people lived in the Old Quarter.
- Hoàn Kiếm Lake and Ngọc Sơn TempleThe heart of Hanoi: a lake, a red bridge and a temple dedicated to letters and to an unbeatable general.
- Hanoi Opera House (Nhà hát Lớn)A little Palais Garnier in the tropics, whose square launched the August Revolution of 1945.
- National Museum of HistoryA building blending France and Asia, created for the school of Orientalists that uncovered ancient Vietnam.
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Lunch
Try Bún chả at Bún chả Đắc Kim. Phố Hàng Mành, 1
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Afternoon
A thousand years of Thăng Long: from mandarin academy to Ba Đình
- Temple of Literature (Văn Miếu)The temple to Confucius that housed Vietnam's first university for seven centuries.
- Flag Tower of Hanoi (Cột cờ Hà Nội)The brick lookout that survived when the French tore down the citadel.
- Imperial Citadel of Thăng Long: Đoan Môn GateThe south gate through which emperors entered the heart of a thousand years of power.
- North Gate (Cửa Bắc)The only citadel gate still standing bears the wounds of the French attack of 1882.
- Ba Đình Square and Hồ Chí Minh MausoleumThe square where independence was declared in 1945, and the mausoleum its protagonist never wanted.
- One Pillar Pagoda (Chùa Một Cột)A tiny shrine on a single pillar, born of an imperial dream and rebuilt after being blown up.
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Early evening
Sacred turtles, a magic sword and jailbreaks: legendary Hanoi
- Hỏa Lò Prison (Maison Centrale)The colonial jail American pilots called the "Hanoi Hilton", from which a hundred prisoners escaped through the sewers.
- St Joseph's Cathedral (Nhà thờ Lớn)A neo-Gothic cathedral built on the site of a pagoda whose twelve-storey tower vanished without trace.
- Turtle Tower (Tháp Rùa)In the middle of the Lake of the Returned Sword, a tower full of rumours: vanished coffins and a Statue of Liberty.
- Ngọc Sơn Temple and the lake turtleThe Temple of the Jade Mountain keeps the body of a giant turtle from the lake, a creature caught between science and myth.
- White Horse Temple (Đền Bạch Mã)The Old Quarter's oldest temple keeps the legend of the horse that showed the emperor where to build the walls.
- Ô Quan Chưởng GateThe last gate of the old city wall, and the mystery of an officer said to have died defending it.
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Dinner
Try Chả cá Lã Vọng at Chả Cá Lã Vọng. Phố Chả Cá, 14
