Stretching out in front of you is Long Biên Bridge, a gigantic iron structure spanning the Red River. For many Hanoians it is a symbol of resilience.

1The Paul Doumer Bridge

It was built between 1899 and 1902 and opened to traffic in 1903. It was named after Paul Doumer, the Governor-General of Indochina who championed it and later became President of France. At about 2.4 kilometres including its approaches, it was one of the longest bridges in Asia. More than three thousand Vietnamese workers took part in building it.

It is often said that Gustave Eiffel designed it. He didn't: it was the work of the Paris firm Daydé & Pillé, whose name appears on a plaque at the end of the bridge.

2Under the bombs

During the war, Long Biên was the only bridge over the Red River linking Hanoi with the port of Hải Phòng, so American aircraft bombed it repeatedly from 1967 onwards. In 1972 several sections fell. Each time it was repaired, which is why today it mixes original curved spans with newer, flat-topped ones.

Today only trains, motorbikes, bicycles and pedestrians use it; cars take other bridges. A curious detail: on the bridge motorbikes ride on the left, the opposite of the rest of the country. If you fancy walking along the side paths, you'll get fine views of the river and the market gardens on its banks.

3What to look for

  • The plaque inscribed «1899-1902 Daydé & Pillé Paris».
  • The difference between the original spans and those repaired after the war.
  • The brick arches of the approach viaduct, home to small businesses.

Documented

The bridge was built between 1899 and 1902 by Daydé & Pillé and was bombed repeatedly between 1967 and 1972.

Oral tradition

Attributing the bridge to Gustave Eiffel is a widespread mistake: Eiffel had no part in the project.

Sources and credits

Hanoi tourism portal (hanoitourism.gov.vn); Vietnamese Wikipedia, «Cầu Long Biên»; Philippe Papin, «Histoire de Hanoi» (Fayard, 2001).

Photos:

  • Iron girders of Long Biên Bridge with a train crossing above the rooftops: Quangpraha, CC0.

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