Day 1Ocean, huacas and legends
Start early on “Lima on the Pacific”, from Kennedy Park to the Bridge of Sighs, and have a ceviche for lunch in Barranco. The afternoon is free: Huaca Pucllana in Miraflores and the Larco Museum in Pueblo Libre link up easily by taxi and lie on the way to the centre. Reach Plaza San Martín as the sun drops for “Bones, saints and heretics”: the Inquisition, the San Francisco catacombs, Pizarro's tomb. End with a butifarra for dinner, the Lima way to close a day.
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Morning
Lima on the Pacific: Miraflores to Barranco along the clifftops
- Kennedy ParkMiraflores's open-air living room, with a church, painters, weekend dancing and dozens of cats who think they own the place.
- Love ParkA twelve-metre couple kisses on the edge of the cliff, surrounded by Gaudí-style mosaics.
- Larcomar and the cliffsA shopping centre dug into the cliff, below a park that remembers an airman who averted a tragedy.
- Barranco Municipal ParkThe main square of the old seaside resort of Lima's elite, with its red-towered library and a marble nymph.
- Bridge of SighsA wooden bridge from 1876, burned in wartime, sung by Chabuca Granda and crossed by generations of lovers holding their breath.
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Lunch
Try Ceviche at Canta Rana. Pasaje Génova 101, Barranco
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Afternoon
Huaca Pucllana
An adobe pyramid of the Lima culture, older than the Incas, rising between the apartment blocks of Miraflores. You visit it on a guided walk around its platforms and courtyards, and it is lit up at night. A short taxi ride from the clifftop, ideal after lunch.
DirectionsLarco Museum
A museum in a viceregal mansion built over a pre-Hispanic structure in Pueblo Libre. It traces thousands of years of pre-Columbian ceramics and has a lovely bougainvillea garden. Take a taxi and set aside at least an hour and a half.
Directions -
Early evening
Bones, saints and heretics: the Lima told in whispers
- Inquisition TribunalBehind this columned façade, the Holy Office tried heretics, crypto-Jews, pirates and alleged witches for 250 years.
- San Francisco Monastery and CatacombsBeneath one of Lima's loveliest churches lie the neatly sorted bones of thousands of colonial-era limeños.
- Lima Cathedral and Pizarro's TombFor almost a century people prayed before the wrong mummy of Francisco Pizarro, until workers opened a forgotten niche.
- Basilica of Santo DomingoThree Lima saints rest here, among them a mixed-race friar credited with astonishing miracles.
- Sanctuary of Saint Rose of LimaThe first saint of the Americas was born in this house, and in its garden is a well where thousands of limeños drop letters every year.
- Church of Las NazarenasA Christ painted on an adobe wall by an enslaved Angolan survived earthquakes that brought down half of Lima.
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Dinner
Try Butifarra at Bar Cordano. Jirón Áncash 202, Cercado de Lima
