Roman, Renaissance, silk-weaving and rebellious: the capital of the Gauls between two rivers.
Lyon was born as Lugdunum on the hill of Fourvière, became capital of the Three Gauls, grew rich on trade fairs, printing and silk, and watched its weavers, the canuts, rise up in 1831. Its historic centre, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1998, is explored through traboules, stairways and squares between the Rhône and the Saône. Three free routes to discover it on foot, at your own pace, from Fourvière to the Croix-Rousse.
Choose your free tour
All routes are free and can be combined. If it’s your first visit, start with the mixed route.
From the Roman theatre of Fourvière to the staircase of the Cour des Voraces: councils, bankers, printers, martyrs and silk weavers in a single walk.
A vow against the plague, a street said to have run red with blood, a pope's lost jewel, Guignol and a stone German in his grotto: the Lyon of stories.
The great squares of the Presqu'île, a wall where the Lumières and Saint-Exupéry gaze down, Bartholdi's fountain, Jean Nouvel's opera house and a weavers' slope with views of Fourvière.
The map
The routes cross in the old town. Tap a point to see which story awaits you there.
Filled points already have a published article; the rest are in the works.
Loading the map…
Itineraries
We’ve planned it day by day for you: which routes to walk and in what order, what else to see and where to eat.
All three routes in one full day: the highlights, the history and the legends at dusk.
See the itinerary 2A gentler pace: the three routes over two days, plus extra sights and where to eat.
See the itinerary 3The city in depth: one route a day, extra museums and neighbourhoods, and a day for good food.
See the itineraryWhat to eat
The dishes you can’t leave without trying, and the classic spots that have been serving them for years.
A long, light, airy dumpling of pike, flour and egg that puffs up in the oven under a Nantua sauce made with crayfish. It is the great bouchon classic and the most Lyonnais way to start: order it at the Café Comptoir Abel in the Ainay district, or at La Meunière near the Terreaux, a bouchon that is close to its hundredth birthday.
Where to try it
The 'sapper's apron' is beef tripe marinated in white wine, breaded and fried, served with gribiche or tartare sauce. It sounds rough and tastes wonderful, and often comes with a salade lyonnaise of greens, lardons, croutons and a poached egg. For dinner in Vieux Lyon, try Les Lyonnais or Daniel et Denise Saint-Jean, two bouchons with the 'Les Bouchons Lyonnais' label.
Where to try it
A thick pork sausage, sometimes studded with pistachios or truffle, baked inside a golden brioche and served in warm slices. It is a hearty bouchon starter; at the Café du Jura, with its Art Deco interior, and at Le Vivarais, opened in 1907 by a Lyonnaise 'mère', it is part of the house tradition.
Where to try it
Lyon's andouillette, a sausage of veal and pork tripe, is grilled and served with mustard sauce and gratin dauphinois. Before it, order cervelle de canut, the 'silk weaver's brain': fresh cheese whipped with herbs, shallot and a dash of vinegar. For dinner, Le Casse Museau, across the Saône from Saint-Paul, or the Café Comptoir Abel.
Where to try it
Bright pink sugar-coated almonds melted with cream into a glossy filling on shortcrust pastry: Lyon's signature sweet. Its cousin is the praluline, a brioche studded with pink praline created in 1955 by Auguste Pralus; the Pralus shop on Rue Saint-Jean is perfect for breakfast or an afternoon snack.
Where to try it
A small cushion of green almond paste filled with chocolate ganache flavoured with curaçao, launched by the Voisin company in 1960. According to tradition, its shape recalls the silk cushion on which the aldermen of 1643 carried their offering up to Fourvière. Buy it at Voisin on Rue de la République: it is the city's classic edible souvenir.
Where to try it
In the bouchons, wine comes in the 'pot lyonnais', a thick-bottomed 46-centilitre glass bottle. The usual choice is a light Beaujolais or a Côtes du Rhône, from the vineyards around the city. Order one at the Café du Jura or Les Lyonnais with dinner or as an aperitif.
Where to try it