One day in LyonTwo rivers, three hills
Start around nine on Place Bellecour with 'The Best of Lyon: from Bellecour up to the Croix-Rousse': Place des Jacobins, the trompe-l'œil Fresque des Lyonnais, the Bartholdi Fountain on Place des Terreaux and the climb up the Grande-Côte. Head down for a pike quenelle in Nantua sauce, then take the funicular from Vieux Lyon for 'From Lugdunum to the Canuts': the Roman theatres, Saint-Jean Cathedral and, at the end, the Cour des Voraces. As the light fades, return to Fourvière for 'Candles, Martyrs and Puppets', which drops down the Gourguillon to the Longue Traboule. Dinner: tablier de sapeur in a bouchon.
-
Morning
The Best of Lyon: from Bellecour up to the Croix-Rousse
- Place BellecourOne of the largest squares in Europe, with a king on horseback, a poet-aviator and a memorial to the Resistance.
- Place des JacobinsA convent square turned elegant drawing room, with a fountain honouring four Lyon artists.
- Fresque des LyonnaisA painted façade where Lyon's most famous people lean out of the windows: from Blandina to the Lumière brothers.
- Place des Terreaux and the Bartholdi FountainAn old moat turned stage for civic power, with a fountain that Bordeaux didn't want.
- Lyon Opera HouseAn 1831 theatre with a glass vault on top: Jean Nouvel's bold stroke.
- Montée de la Grande-CôteThe slope the canuts marched down in 1831 ends at one of the best viewpoints in Lyon.
-
Lunch
Try Pike quenelle with Nantua sauce at Café Comptoir Abel. 25 rue Guynemer, Lyon
-
Afternoon
From Lugdunum to the Canuts: 2,000 Years of Lyon on Foot
- Roman Theatres of FourvièreThe seats of Lugdunum, the city Rome turned into the capital of the Gauls.
- Saint-Jean CathedralThe primatial church of the Gauls, where two councils met, a pope was crowned and Henri IV was married.
- Place du Change and the Loge du ChangeThe square where Italian bankers moved half of Europe's money during the Renaissance fairs.
- Hôtel de la Couronne, Printing MuseumThe old town hall that now tells how Lyon became one of Europe's book capitals.
- Amphitheatre of the Three GaulsWhere the sixty Gaulish peoples gathered and where, historians believe, the martyrs of 177 died.
- Cour des VoracesA six-storey staircase in the heart of the canut district, home of the silk weavers who rose up in 1831.
-
Early evening
Candles, Martyrs and Puppets: the Legends of Lyon
- Basilica of Notre-Dame de FourvièreA vow against the plague, a golden Virgin and candles in the windows: the origin of the Festival of Lights.
- Montée du GourguillonLyon's oldest slope, where legend sends the martyrs' blood flowing and history sent a pope tumbling.
- Place de la Trinité and GuignolThe backdrop of Guignol, the puppet born speaking up for the silk weavers.
- The Longue TrabouleA passage through four buildings: the longest traboule in Vieux Lyon and one of its best-kept secrets.
- L'Homme de la RocheA German banker turned lay saint: the 'good German' who, Lyon says, paid for poor girls to marry.
-
Dinner
Try Tablier de sapeur at Les Lyonnais. 19 rue de la Bombarde, Lyon
