Day 1Squares, marble and candlelight
Set off early from Bellecour with 'The Best of Lyon: from Bellecour up to the Croix-Rousse', then come down the Grande-Côte for a quenelle lunch. Next, the Musée des Beaux-Arts on Place des Terreaux: an hour or two covers the highlights, and the cloister garden is perfect for a rest. Cross into Vieux Lyon, ride the funicular up to Fourvière and visit Lugdunum. You come out a short walk from the basilica, where 'Candles, Martyrs and Puppets' begins: the Gourguillon, Guignol on Place de la Trinité and the Longue Traboule. Dinner: tablier de sapeur.
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Morning
The Best of Lyon: from Bellecour up to the Croix-Rousse
- Place BellecourOne of the largest squares in Europe, with a king on horseback, a poet-aviator and a memorial to the Resistance.
- Place des JacobinsA convent square turned elegant drawing room, with a fountain honouring four Lyon artists.
- Fresque des LyonnaisA painted façade where Lyon's most famous people lean out of the windows: from Blandina to the Lumière brothers.
- Place des Terreaux and the Bartholdi FountainAn old moat turned stage for civic power, with a fountain that Bordeaux didn't want.
- Lyon Opera HouseAn 1831 theatre with a glass vault on top: Jean Nouvel's bold stroke.
- Montée de la Grande-CôteThe slope the canuts marched down in 1831 ends at one of the best viewpoints in Lyon.
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Lunch
Try Pike quenelle with Nantua sauce at Café Comptoir Abel. 25 rue Guynemer, Lyon
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Afternoon
Musée des Beaux-Arts
Housed in a 17th-century Benedictine abbey on Place des Terreaux, it's one of France's great museums: Egyptian antiquities, paintings from Rubens to Monet and Picasso, and a cloister garden that's free to enter. It usually closes on Tuesdays.
DirectionsLugdunum – Museum and Roman Theatres
A museum dug into the slope of Fourvière beside the theatres, telling the story of the capital of the Gauls. Its star piece is the Claudian Tablet, a bronze bearing a speech by Emperor Claudius, who was born in Lyon. The mosaics are superb. Usually closed on Mondays.
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Early evening
Candles, Martyrs and Puppets: the Legends of Lyon
- Basilica of Notre-Dame de FourvièreA vow against the plague, a golden Virgin and candles in the windows: the origin of the Festival of Lights.
- Montée du GourguillonLyon's oldest slope, where legend sends the martyrs' blood flowing and history sent a pope tumbling.
- Place de la Trinité and GuignolThe backdrop of Guignol, the puppet born speaking up for the silk weavers.
- The Longue TrabouleA passage through four buildings: the longest traboule in Vieux Lyon and one of its best-kept secrets.
- L'Homme de la RocheA German banker turned lay saint: the 'good German' who, Lyon says, paid for poor girls to marry.
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Dinner
Try Tablier de sapeur at Les Lyonnais. 19 rue de la Bombarde, Lyon
