One day in NaplesFrom the sea to the skulls
Start early in Piazza Dante with “From Piazza Dante to the sea”: walk down Via Toledo, peer into the Spanish Quarter, cut through the Galleria Umberto I and finish facing the bay at Castel dell'Ovo. Head back towards the centre for a Neapolitan pizza at Port'Alba, next to Piazza Dante. In the afternoon, follow “From Greek Neapolis to the Bourbon court”, from San Lorenzo Maggiore to the Royal Palace. At dusk, climb back up to Spaccanapoli for “Deals with the devil”: the Sansevero Chapel and Purgatorio ad Arco. For dinner, ragù napoletano at Tandem on Via Paladino, a few minutes from the Sansevero.
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Morning
From Piazza Dante to the sea: the Naples you can't miss
- Piazza DanteAn old market that Vanvitelli turned into a forum honouring King Charles of Bourbon.
- Via Toledo and the Spanish QuarterThe street a Spanish viceroy opened in 1536 and the maze of alleys his soldiers lived in.
- Galleria Umberto IA cathedral of iron and glass, built after the cholera of 1884 on top of one of the city's poorest districts.
- Piazza del PlebiscitoA vast square between a palace and a Roman-style temple, with a game almost nobody manages to win.
- Fontana del GiganteA Baroque fountain that has moved four times and is named after a statue that no longer exists.
- Castel dell'OvoThe oldest castle in Naples, on the islet where the city was born, and which, legend says, rests on an egg.
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Lunch
Try Neapolitan pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele. Via Cesare Sersale, 1, Nápoles
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Afternoon
From Greek Neapolis to the Bourbon court
- San Lorenzo MaggioreA Gothic basilica built right on top of the market of the Roman city, which you can still walk through underground.
- Piazza San Domenico MaggioreThe square of the nobles, of the kings of Aragon and of a friar called Thomas Aquinas.
- Santa ChiaraThe great church of the Angevin kings, which burned for days in 1943 and was rebuilt stone by stone.
- Castel NuovoThe castle of the kings of Naples, with a Renaissance triumphal arch wedged between two medieval towers.
- Royal PalaceA palace built for a king who never came, guarded on its facade by eight stone monarchs.
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Early evening
Deals with the devil, alchemist princes and restless souls
- Palazzo PenneA palace from 1406 which, legend says, the devil built in a single night.
- Gesù NuovoA palace facade turned into a church, with mysterious marks carved into its diamond points.
- Sansevero ChapelThe chapel of an inventor and alchemist prince, home to the Veiled Christ and two skeletons with every vein in place.
- Statue of the NileAn Egyptian god that Neapolitans mistook for centuries for a mother nursing the city.
- Purgatorio ad ArcoThe church of the skulls, where Neapolitans adopted a lost soul in exchange for favours.
- Naples CathedralSan Gennaro's church, where three times a year the city waits for its patron saint's blood to liquefy.
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Dinner
Try Ragù napoletano at Tandem Ragù. Via Giovanni Paladino, 51, Nápoles
