One day in MilanFrom the Duomo to dark Milan
Start early with "Must-see Milan: from Brera to the Navigli": La Scala, the Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II and the Duomo, finishing at the Navigli. Have a risotto alla milanese at a trattoria in the centre. In the afternoon, "From Mediolanum to the Sforza" begins at the Columns of San Lorenzo and runs through Sant'Ambrogio and Santa Maria delle Grazie to the Castello Sforzesco. At dusk, take the metro back to the Devil's Column to start "Dark Milan", and end the day with a cotoletta for dinner.
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Morning
Must-see Milan: from Brera to the Navigli
- Palazzo di BreraA former Jesuit college turned temple of art, with a naked bronze Napoleon in the middle of the courtyard.
- Teatro alla ScalaA modest façade for the world's most famous opera house, born in 1778 on the ruins of a church.
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele IIMilan's «drawing room»: a glass-and-iron covered street with a bull in the floor that everyone treads on for luck.
- Milan Cathedral (Duomo)Almost six centuries of building, a forest of pinkish marble spires and a golden Madonna watching over the city.
- The Columns of San Lorenzo and the TicineseRoman columns, a basilica with a huge dome and the square where Milan sits down to chat at dusk.
- The Navigli and Vicolo dei LavandaiThe canal that brought the Duomo's marble, a century-old stone washhouse and Milan's favourite bank for an aperitivo.
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Lunch
Try Risotto alla milanese at Trattoria Milanese. Via Santa Marta, 11
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Afternoon
From Mediolanum to the Sforza: twenty centuries on foot
- The Columns of San LorenzoSixteen Roman columns that have stood for nearly two thousand years, a reminder that Milan was once an imperial capital.
- The Basilica of Sant'AmbrogioThe church founded by the most influential bishop of his age, which became the spiritual heart of Milan.
- Santa Maria delle GrazieThe Dominican convent Ludovico il Moro wanted as his family mausoleum, and where Leonardo painted the Last Supper.
- San Maurizio al Monastero MaggioreA plain façade hiding the so-called «Sistine Chapel of Milan» and a church split in two by a wall.
- Castello SforzescoThe fortress of the Visconti and the Sforza: blown up, occupied, half demolished and finally revived by a stubborn architect.
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Early evening
Dark Milan: devils, plague-spreaders and skulls
- The Devil's ColumnA Roman column with two holes that, legend says, were made by the devil's horns as he charged at Saint Ambrose.
- The Colonna InfameThis was the home of the barber Gian Giacomo Mora, executed in 1630 as a plague-spreader after a trial under torture.
- Via BagneraA narrow, winding alley where Antonio Boggia, regarded as Italy's first serial killer, carried out his crimes.
- The half-woolly sow of Piazza dei MercantiA sow half covered in wool, carved on a medieval arch, holds the legend of Milan's founding.
- Casa degli OmenoniEight stone giants guard the house of Leone Leoni, sculptor to emperors and a man with a violent temper.
- San Bernardino alle OssaA small church beside Santo Stefano hides a chapel whose walls are covered in skulls and bones.
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Dinner
Try Cotoletta alla milanese at Antica Trattoria della Pesa. Viale Pasubio, 10
