Day 1Mosaics, tunnels and restless souls
Set off early on “From Piazza Dante to the sea”: Via Toledo, the Galleria Umberto I, Piazza del Plebiscito and Castel dell'Ovo. Have a Neapolitan pizza for lunch at Da Michele or Port'Alba, then give the afternoon to the Archaeological Museum, one metro stop from Piazza Dante. Afterwards, wander down to Via dei Tribunali for underground Naples. At dusk, just around the corner, it's time for “Deals with the devil”: Palazzo Penne, the Sansevero Chapel and the skulls of Purgatorio ad Arco. For dinner, ten minutes' walk away, it's ragù napoletano at Tandem on Via Paladino.
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Morning
From Piazza Dante to the sea: the Naples you can't miss
- Piazza DanteAn old market that Vanvitelli turned into a forum honouring King Charles of Bourbon.
- Via Toledo and the Spanish QuarterThe street a Spanish viceroy opened in 1536 and the maze of alleys his soldiers lived in.
- Galleria Umberto IA cathedral of iron and glass, built after the cholera of 1884 on top of one of the city's poorest districts.
- Piazza del PlebiscitoA vast square between a palace and a Roman-style temple, with a game almost nobody manages to win.
- Fontana del GiganteA Baroque fountain that has moved four times and is named after a statue that no longer exists.
- Castel dell'OvoThe oldest castle in Naples, on the islet where the city was born, and which, legend says, rests on an egg.
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Lunch
Try Neapolitan pizza at L'Antica Pizzeria da Michele. Via Cesare Sersale, 1, Nápoles
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Afternoon
National Archaeological Museum
One of the world's great museums of antiquity: the Farnese collection of sculpture and the mosaics and frescoes of Pompeii and Herculaneum, including the Alexander Mosaic showing the Battle of Issus. Check the opening times; it usually closes on Tuesdays.
DirectionsUnderground Naples
A guided tour some forty metres below the street, through cisterns dug from Greek times onwards and used as air-raid shelters during the Second World War. It also takes in remains of the Roman theatre. The entrance is on Piazza San Gaetano, right by the evening route.
Directions -
Early evening
Deals with the devil, alchemist princes and restless souls
- Palazzo PenneA palace from 1406 which, legend says, the devil built in a single night.
- Gesù NuovoA palace facade turned into a church, with mysterious marks carved into its diamond points.
- Sansevero ChapelThe chapel of an inventor and alchemist prince, home to the Veiled Christ and two skeletons with every vein in place.
- Statue of the NileAn Egyptian god that Neapolitans mistook for centuries for a mother nursing the city.
- Purgatorio ad ArcoThe church of the skulls, where Neapolitans adopted a lost soul in exchange for favours.
- Naples CathedralSan Gennaro's church, where three times a year the city waits for its patron saint's blood to liquefy.
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Dinner
Try Ragù napoletano at Tandem Ragù. Via Giovanni Paladino, 51, Nápoles
