One day in PortoAzulejos, merchants and lost souls
Start early at the Chapel of Souls with the route «Porto in a morning: from azulejos to the Douro»: the Bolhão is nicer before the crowds, the Clérigos Tower before the queues, and the Ribeira waits at the end beside the Luís I Bridge. Have a francesinha for lunch and climb to the Sé for «From the bishop's town to the merchants' city», which passes the Stock Exchange Palace and ends at São Bento and the Aliados. As the sun sinks, «Porto of lost souls, prison cells and enchanted books» runs from the Alminhas da Ponte to the Hidden House. Dinner: tripas à moda do Porto.
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Morning
Porto in a morning: from azulejos to the Douro
- Chapel of Souls (Capela das Almas)A chapel clad from top to bottom in nearly sixteen thousand tiles, on the city's busiest shopping street.
- Bolhão MarketPorto's age-old market, reborn in 2022 after four years of works.
- Clérigos TowerNasoni's tower that guided boats on the Douro and can be seen from almost every corner of Porto.
- Cathedral Square (Terreiro da Sé)Old Porto's finest balcony: the cathedral esplanade, with the city and the Douro at your feet.
- Ribeira SquareThe riverside square where Porto has traded since the Middle Ages, with colourful houses and wine boats.
- Luís I BridgeThe great two-deck iron arch linking Porto and Gaia, designed by a former partner of Eiffel.
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Lunch
Try Francesinha at A Regaleira. Rua do Bonjardim, 83
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Afternoon
From the bishop's town to the merchants' city
- Porto Cathedral (Sé)On top of the Pena Ventosa hill, a bishop was handed the whole town as his lordship and an English princess married a Portuguese king.
- Casa do InfanteThe customs house a king built against the bishop's wishes, and the house where, tradition says, Henry the Navigator was born.
- Stock Exchange Palace (Palácio da Bolsa)Porto's merchants built their palace on the ruins of a convent burned during a civil war.
- São Bento StationA nuns' convent turned railway station, with Portugal's history painted on twenty thousand azulejo tiles.
- Avenida dos AliadosThe grand avenue Porto opened in the middle of the First World War to give itself a centre fit for a capital.
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Early evening
Porto of lost souls, prison cells and enchanted books
- Alminhas da PonteA bronze relief with candles always burning recalls the morning in 1809 when a bridge of boats gave way under a panicking crowd.
- Church of São FranciscoOutside, a stern Gothic church; inside, a blaze of gold; underground, the catacombs of the Third Order.
- The Misericórdia and the «Fons Vitae» mysteryOn Rua das Flores hangs a five-hundred-year-old Flemish panel whose painter is still being debated.
- Former Relação PrisonThe jail where Camilo Castelo Branco wrote a novel of doomed love while his lover served her time in another cell.
- Livraria LelloThe bookshop half the world believes inspired Harry Potter, even though its author says she never set foot in it.
- The Hidden House of CarmoBetween two churches that were not allowed to touch, a house barely more than a metre wide that almost nobody notices.
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Dinner
Try Tripas à moda do Porto at Abadia do Porto. Rua do Ateneu Comercial do Porto, 22-24
