This white tower, standing alone at the top of a park, is what remains of the Russian Legation, completed in 1890 on the highest point of Jeong-dong. From here you could look down on Deoksugung Palace and much of the city. Its design is usually credited to the Russian architect Afanasy Seredin-Sabatin.
1The murder of the queen
In October 1895, a group of Japanese agents and soldiers, with Korean collaborators, entered Gyeongbokgung and murdered Queen Min, known today as Empress Myeongseong, who favoured closer ties with Russia against Japan. King Gojong became virtually a prisoner in his own palace.
2The escape
In the early hours of 11 February 1896, Gojong and the crown prince slipped out of the palace and took refuge here. According to accounts of the time, they travelled hidden in court ladies' palanquins, which the guards did not search. The episode is known as Agwan pacheon, "the king's move to the Russian legation". Gojong ruled from here for a year, until 20 February 1897.
For years there has been talk of a secret passage between the legation and the palace; there is no proof it ever existed.
What does exist is a narrow path along the wall, opened to the public in 2018 as "Gojong's Road", which recreates the route the king may have taken. The building was destroyed in the Korean War, and the tower was restored in 1973.
3What to look for
- The tower, in Renaissance Revival style, with arched windows.
- The high vantage point: look towards Deoksugung.
- The remains of foundations in the garden.

Documented
The legation was completed in 1890; Gojong took refuge there from 11 February 1896 to 20 February 1897, after the murder of Queen Min in 1895.
Oral tradition
The escape in court ladies' palanquins comes from contemporary accounts, and the supposed secret passage to the palace is an unconfirmed rumour.
Sources and credits
Korea Heritage Service, «Former Russian Legation, Seoul» (historic site); Encyclopedia of Korean Culture, entry «Agwan pacheon»; Isabella Bird, «Korea and Her Neighbours» (1898), an eyewitness of the period.
Photos:
- Three-storey white tower of the Old Russian Legation, with arched windows, among trees and an office building: Lawinc82, CC BY-SA 3.0.
- Late 19th-century press engraving showing Russian guards arriving in Seoul: Frederic Villiers, Dominio público.
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