One day in VeniceCanals, merchants and legends
Start early with “From St Mark's to the Frari”, before the tour groups arrive: the square almost empty, the Bridge of Sighs, then Rialto and its market, which is only really alive in the morning. For lunch, sarde in saor and cicchetti standing up in a bacaro by the market. In the afternoon, “Merchants, doges and the world's first ghetto” takes you from Rialto up into Cannaregio, to the Ghetto and Campo dei Mori. Rest on the Fondamenta della Misericordia, then at dusk walk “Curses, executioners and rooftop escapes”, from Ca' Dario to the Gobbo di Rialto. Seppie al nero for dinner close by.
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Morning
From St Mark's to the Frari: the Venice you can't miss
- St Mark's Square and BasilicaThe only "piazza" in Venice, with a basilica built to house a body stolen from Alexandria.
- Bridge of SighsAn elegant Baroque bridge that was really a corridor between the judges and the jail.
- Rialto BridgeFor nearly three centuries it was the only bridge across the Grand Canal, and its wooden predecessors collapsed more than once.
- Rialto MarketFor centuries the lagoon's fish and the islands' vegetables have been sold here, with a stone tablet setting the minimum size of the fish.
- Campo San PoloThis vast campo saw bull-baiting and festivals, and the murder of the Medici who had killed his cousin.
- Frari BasilicaA Gothic brick church that holds Titian's tomb and the painting that made him famous.
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Lunch
Try Sarde in saor and cicchetti at Cantina Do Mori. Calle dei Do Mori, San Polo 429, Venecia
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Afternoon
Merchants, doges and the world's first ghetto
- Fondaco dei Tedeschi and Campo San BartolomeoGerman merchants lived, ate and stored their goods here, under the watchful eye of the Republic.
- Campo Santi Apostoli and the palace of Marino FalierThis palace was home to the only doge ever sentenced to death for betraying the Republic.
- Ponte delle GuglieFor centuries, anyone arriving in Venice from the mainland came in along this canal and passed under this bridge.
- The GhettoIn 1516 Venice forced its Jews to live on this enclosed island, and the place's name went on to travel the world.
- Scuola Grande and Fondamenta della MisericordiaA gigantic confraternity hall that never got its marble facade and ended up as a basketball court.
- Campo dei MoriThree turbaned stone merchants keep watch over this campo, and one of them has an iron nose.
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Early evening
Curses, executioners and rooftop escapes
- Ca' DarioThe loveliest palace on the Grand Canal has a reputation for being cursed, but the archives tell another story.
- Columns of St Mark and St TheodoreVenice's gateway from the sea was also, for centuries, the place of public executions.
- The Leads and Casanova's escapeFrom this bridge you can see the prison Giacomo Casanova escaped from across the rooftops in 1756.
- Santa Maria FormosaA church born, so tradition says, of a vision, and a stone face that horrified John Ruskin.
- Corte del MilionThe Polo family's houses stood here, and here was born the legend of the traveller nobody recognised on his return.
- The Gobbo di RialtoLaws were proclaimed from this stone, and here ended the run of those sentenced to a flogging.
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Dinner
Try Seppie al nero with polenta at Trattoria alla Madonna. Calle de la Madona, San Polo 594, Venecia
