Day 1Tintoretto and the cursed palace
Start early at St Mark's with “From St Mark's to the Frari”: the Bridge of Sighs, Rialto and Campo San Polo. Break in a bacaro between the market and San Polo for sarde in saor and a few cicchetti. When you finish at the Frari, the Scuola Grande di San Rocco is next door, and the Accademia is a short walk away. Cross the Accademia Bridge and you're at the start of “Curses, executioners and rooftop escapes”, with Ca' Dario across the water and Casanova in the Leads. Dinner is seppie al nero near Rialto.
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Morning
From St Mark's to the Frari: the Venice you can't miss
- St Mark's Square and BasilicaThe only "piazza" in Venice, with a basilica built to house a body stolen from Alexandria.
- Bridge of SighsAn elegant Baroque bridge that was really a corridor between the judges and the jail.
- Rialto BridgeFor nearly three centuries it was the only bridge across the Grand Canal, and its wooden predecessors collapsed more than once.
- Rialto MarketFor centuries the lagoon's fish and the islands' vegetables have been sold here, with a stone tablet setting the minimum size of the fish.
- Campo San PoloThis vast campo saw bull-baiting and festivals, and the murder of the Medici who had killed his cousin.
- Frari BasilicaA Gothic brick church that holds Titian's tomb and the painting that made him famous.
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Lunch
Try Sarde in saor and cicchetti at Cantina Do Mori. Calle dei Do Mori, San Polo 429, Venecia
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Afternoon
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
The headquarters of one of Venice's great confraternities, which Tintoretto filled with canvases for more than twenty years, including a vast Crucifixion in the Sala dell'Albergo. Pick up one of the mirrors to study the ceilings without straining your neck. It stands right beside the Frari.
DirectionsGallerie dell'Accademia
Venice's great picture gallery: Bellini, Carpaccio, Giorgione, Titian, Veronese and Tintoretto, in a former convent on the Grand Canal. Choose a handful of rooms rather than trying to see everything. On the way out, the Accademia Bridge sets you on the path to the sunset route.
Directions -
Early evening
Curses, executioners and rooftop escapes
- Ca' DarioThe loveliest palace on the Grand Canal has a reputation for being cursed, but the archives tell another story.
- Columns of St Mark and St TheodoreVenice's gateway from the sea was also, for centuries, the place of public executions.
- The Leads and Casanova's escapeFrom this bridge you can see the prison Giacomo Casanova escaped from across the rooftops in 1756.
- Santa Maria FormosaA church born, so tradition says, of a vision, and a stone face that horrified John Ruskin.
- Corte del MilionThe Polo family's houses stood here, and here was born the legend of the traveller nobody recognised on his return.
- The Gobbo di RialtoLaws were proclaimed from this stone, and here ended the run of those sentenced to a flogging.
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Dinner
Try Seppie al nero with polenta at Trattoria alla Madonna. Calle de la Madona, San Polo 594, Venecia
