Day 1The emperor and his lakes
Start early with “Beijing highlights: around the Forbidden City”: Tiananmen Gate, Changpu Canal and the view from Jingshan hill give you a map of the palace before you go in. Then head down to Qianmen for shaomai at Duyichu and walk north across Tiananmen Square to the Meridian Gate, where your booked visit begins. Leave by the north gate, take a short taxi ride to Shichahai and do the lakes-and-bells route at sunset. Round off the day with griddled lamb at Kaorou Ji.
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Morning
Beijing highlights: around the Forbidden City
- Tiananmen GateThe entrance to the Imperial City, from which edicts were announced and the People's Republic was proclaimed in 1949.
- Changpu Canal ParkAn imperial canal that spent half a century buried, and a stone archive where the dynasty's secrets were kept.
- Donghuamen, the East GateThe gate through which imperial coffins left, with one row of studs fewer than the others and a rebellion that reached its very doors.
- The north-east corner towerNine beams, eighteen pillars and seventy-two ridges: the palace's most photographed tower and the legend of a cricket cage.
- Jingshan hillA hill made by hand to protect the palace, the best view of the Forbidden City and the tree where the Ming dynasty ended.
- Beihai lake and the White DagobaThe oldest imperial garden in the city, a jade island around which Kublai Khan built his capital.
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Lunch
Try Duyichu shaomai at Duyichu (都一处). Qianmen Dajie, 36, Dongcheng, Pekín
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Afternoon
Tiananmen Square
One of the largest public squares in the world, with the Monument to the People's Heroes at its centre, Mao's mausoleum to the south, and the Great Hall of the People and the National Museum on either side. Cross it south to north after lunch; there's a passport check.
DirectionsForbidden City (Palace Museum)
Home to the Ming and Qing emperors, completed in 1420 and a museum since 1925: courtyards, throne halls and gardens stretching almost a kilometre. You enter at the Meridian Gate and leave by the north gate. Book ahead with your passport; usually closed on Mondays, so check.
Directions -
Early evening
Lakes and bells: the secrets of Shichahai
- Prince Gong's MansionThe house built by the most corrupt minister of the Qing dynasty, and the character for happiness he is said to have hidden there.
- Yinding Bridge and the bomb of 1910A little bridge shaped like a silver ingot, the best view of the Western Hills and a plot against the regent that nearly changed history.
- Wanning Bridge and the Fire God TempleThe final port of the Grand Canal, stone beasts that watch over the water and a temple built to keep the palace safe from flames.
- The Drum TowerThe tower that told the whole city the time with 108 strikes, and a drum that still bears the slashes of 1900.
- The Bell Tower and the legend of the bell maidenA bronze bell more than five metres tall, and the legend of the young woman who is said to have thrown herself into the molten metal.
- Nanluoguxiang, the centipede streetA hunchbacked lane with sixteen legs, the home of an ill-fated empress and the mansions of generals who switched sides.
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Dinner
Try Kaorou, Beijing-style griddled lamb at Kaorou Ji (烤肉季). Qianhai Dongyan, junto al puente Yinding, Shichahai, Xicheng, Pekín
