One day in BeijingFrom the palace to the lakes
Start early at Tiananmen Gate with “Beijing highlights: around the Forbidden City” – security lines move faster first thing. Follow the moat to the corner tower and climb Jingshan hill for the view over the golden roofs. Then take the metro or a taxi down to Qianmen for shaomai at Duyichu, and walk “Gates, legations and guilds” from Dongjiaominxiang to Liulichang. Head north to Shichahai at sunset for the lakes-and-bells route, and finish with griddled lamb at Kaorou Ji, right by Yinding Bridge.
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Morning
Beijing highlights: around the Forbidden City
- Tiananmen GateThe entrance to the Imperial City, from which edicts were announced and the People's Republic was proclaimed in 1949.
- Changpu Canal ParkAn imperial canal that spent half a century buried, and a stone archive where the dynasty's secrets were kept.
- Donghuamen, the East GateThe gate through which imperial coffins left, with one row of studs fewer than the others and a rebellion that reached its very doors.
- The north-east corner towerNine beams, eighteen pillars and seventy-two ridges: the palace's most photographed tower and the legend of a cricket cage.
- Jingshan hillA hill made by hand to protect the palace, the best view of the Forbidden City and the tree where the Ming dynasty ended.
- Beihai lake and the White DagobaThe oldest imperial garden in the city, a jade island around which Kublai Khan built his capital.
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Lunch
Try Duyichu shaomai at Duyichu (都一处). Qianmen Dajie, 36, Dongcheng, Pekín
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Afternoon
Gates, legations and guilds: Beijing's southern city
- Dongjiaominxiang, the Legation QuarterA quiet street with a Gothic church where, in 1900, hundreds of foreigners and Chinese Christians held out through a 55-day siege.
- The old Qianmen railway stationBeijing's iron gateway: a British-looking station through which kings, generals and modern times arrived.
- Zhengyangmen, the Qianmen gateThe tallest gate in Beijing's city wall, split in two by an avenue and lined up with the imperial throne.
- Qianmen Street and its great archwayThe shopping avenue of the central axis, with a five-bay archway, a vintage tram and restaurants that have been roasting ducks for a century and a half.
- Dashilar, the street of century-old shopsA wooden barrier, a fire that wiped out a district, and the pharmacies, silk merchants and shoemakers still open since imperial times.
- Liulichang, the scholars' streetWhere the palace's golden roof tiles were once fired, booksellers, painters and brush makers later moved in.
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Early evening
Lakes and bells: the secrets of Shichahai
- Prince Gong's MansionThe house built by the most corrupt minister of the Qing dynasty, and the character for happiness he is said to have hidden there.
- Yinding Bridge and the bomb of 1910A little bridge shaped like a silver ingot, the best view of the Western Hills and a plot against the regent that nearly changed history.
- Wanning Bridge and the Fire God TempleThe final port of the Grand Canal, stone beasts that watch over the water and a temple built to keep the palace safe from flames.
- The Drum TowerThe tower that told the whole city the time with 108 strikes, and a drum that still bears the slashes of 1900.
- The Bell Tower and the legend of the bell maidenA bronze bell more than five metres tall, and the legend of the young woman who is said to have thrown herself into the molten metal.
- Nanluoguxiang, the centipede streetA hunchbacked lane with sixteen legs, the home of an ill-fated empress and the mansions of generals who switched sides.
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Dinner
Try Kaorou, Beijing-style griddled lamb at Kaorou Ji (烤肉季). Qianhai Dongyan, junto al puente Yinding, Shichahai, Xicheng, Pekín
