One day in BudapestThree routes, two banks
Start early on Castle Hill with «The best of Budapest: Castle Hill»: Matthias Church, Fisherman's Bastion and the royal palace, before the tour groups arrive. Come down over the Chain Bridge and have a goulash for lunch in Pest. The afternoon belongs to «Budapest from 1849 to 1989: the Pest Embankment»: Parliament, the shoes on the Danube and St Stephen's Basilica. At dusk, cross Elisabeth Bridge and climb Witches' Hill for the best view. Finish with a lángos for dinner.
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Morning
The best of Budapest: Castle Hill
- Matthias ChurchRoyal weddings, a century and a half as a mosque and a ceramic roof that glitters like fish scales.
- Fisherman's BastionIt looks like a medieval fortress, but it's a lookout built in 1902 for gazing at the Danube.
- Sándor PalaceThe Hungarian president's residence, where a prime minister took his own life in 1941 rather than break his word.
- Buda Royal PalaceDestroyed and rebuilt again and again: the palace of Hungary's kings is the city's great survivor.
- Chain BridgeThe first permanent bridge between Buda and Pest, born of Széchenyi's stubbornness and guarded by four lions with a legend.
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Lunch
Try Goulash (gulyás) at Százéves Étterem. Piarista utca 2, Budapest
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Afternoon
Budapest from 1849 to 1989: the Pest Embankment
- Hungarian Academy of SciencesA palace born of a single gesture: the day a young count gave a whole year's income so that Hungarian could have a science of its own.
- Shoes on the Danube BankSixty pairs of iron shoes at the water's edge: Budapest's simplest and most harrowing memorial.
- Parliament and Kossuth SquareHungary's largest building, conceived for the nation's millennium, and a square that ran with blood in 1956.
- Batthyány Eternal FlameA flame that never goes out, on the corner where Hungary's first prime minister was shot.
- Liberty SquareBudapest's most contradictory square: a Soviet obelisk, a bronze American president and a cardinal who lived fifteen years inside an embassy.
- St Stephen's BasilicaHalf a century of building work, a dome that collapsed and a church exactly as tall as Parliament.
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Early evening
Witches' Hill: Legends of Gellért Hill
- Contra-Aquincum and Pest's Oldest ChurchUnder a sheet of glass, the walls of a Roman fort; beside it, a church that was once a mosque and, by tradition, once held a martyr's grave.
- St Gerard's Statue and the Witches' HillA bishop who, legend says, was hurled down the hillside, and a hill that for centuries was said to draw the witches of Hungary.
- Rudas BathsA 16th-century Ottoman dome over hot springs that were rising from the hill long before the city existed.
- Cave ChurchA church carved into the hill, which the communist police walled up behind concrete in 1951.
- Liberty BridgeA green bridge from 1896 crowned by four turul birds, the bird of the dream that, legend says, foretold the Árpád dynasty.
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Dinner
Try Lángos at Központi Vásárcsarnok. Vámház körút 1–3, Budapest
