Day 1Castle, synagogue and legends
In the morning, take the route «The best of Budapest: Castle Hill», with Matthias Church and Fisherman's Bastion. Come down and have your goulash at Százéves, in Pest. The afternoon is free for two sights in the centre, a few minutes' walk apart. When the sun drops, return to Elisabeth Bridge to start «Witches' Hill: Legends of Gellért Hill», with St Gerard and the Rudas Baths. For dinner, a lángos.
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Morning
The best of Budapest: Castle Hill
- Matthias ChurchRoyal weddings, a century and a half as a mosque and a ceramic roof that glitters like fish scales.
- Fisherman's BastionIt looks like a medieval fortress, but it's a lookout built in 1902 for gazing at the Danube.
- Sándor PalaceThe Hungarian president's residence, where a prime minister took his own life in 1941 rather than break his word.
- Buda Royal PalaceDestroyed and rebuilt again and again: the palace of Hungary's kings is the city's great survivor.
- Chain BridgeThe first permanent bridge between Buda and Pest, born of Széchenyi's stubbornness and guarded by four lions with a legend.
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Lunch
Try Goulash (gulyás) at Százéves Étterem. Piarista utca 2, Budapest
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Afternoon
Dohány Street Synagogue
The largest synagogue in Europe, in Moorish style, with two domed towers. It stands in the old Jewish Quarter, ten minutes from Százéves. It does not open to visitors on Saturdays, so check the day beforehand.
DirectionsHungarian State Opera
A neo-Renaissance theatre opened in 1884, with a gilded interior and a marble staircase. You can visit on a guided tour or catch a performance. It sits on Andrássy Avenue, a short stroll from the synagogue.
Directions -
Early evening
Witches' Hill: Legends of Gellért Hill
- Contra-Aquincum and Pest's Oldest ChurchUnder a sheet of glass, the walls of a Roman fort; beside it, a church that was once a mosque and, by tradition, once held a martyr's grave.
- St Gerard's Statue and the Witches' HillA bishop who, legend says, was hurled down the hillside, and a hill that for centuries was said to draw the witches of Hungary.
- Rudas BathsA 16th-century Ottoman dome over hot springs that were rising from the hill long before the city existed.
- Cave ChurchA church carved into the hill, which the communist police walled up behind concrete in 1951.
- Liberty BridgeA green bridge from 1896 crowned by four turul birds, the bird of the dream that, legend says, foretold the Árpád dynasty.
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Dinner
Try Lángos at Központi Vásárcsarnok. Vámház körút 1–3, Budapest
