One day in MedellínBronzes, palaces and ghosts
Start mid-morning in Plaza Botero with “Downtown Medellín highlights: from Botero to Junín”, which carries on past Berrío Park and the Coltejer to the Metropolitan Cathedral. Have a bandeja paisa on Junín and refuel: the afternoon belongs to “From the village of La Candelaria to the railway city”, from the Palace of Culture to Botero’s birds in San Antonio Park. Around half past four, “Medellín of lost souls, hidden streams and ghosts” sets off from La Veracruz and ends on Avenida La Playa. From there, take a ride-hailing taxi to Mondongo’s, in Laureles or El Poblado, for a bowl of mondongo antioqueño.
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Morning
Downtown Medellín highlights: from Botero to Junín
- Plaza Botero and the Museum of AntioquiaTwenty-three sculptures given by the city's most famous artist, in front of the old city hall.
- Berrío ParkMedellín's living room since the 17th century: tinto, deals struck on benches and the metro overhead.
- Coltejer BuildingA 175-metre needle raised on the ruins of the city's largest theatre.
- Junín PromenadeThe street where Medellín invented a verb: «juniniar», strolling unhurriedly past shop windows and cafés.
- Metropolitan Cathedral and Bolívar ParkA cathedral of more than a million bricks, built over a stream nobody ever fully tamed.
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Lunch
Try Bandeja paisa at Hacienda Origen (sede Junín). Carrera 49 n.º 52-98, segundo piso (Junín)
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Afternoon
From the village of La Candelaria to the railway city
- Basilica of Our Lady of La CandelariaThe church that gave the town its name: Medellín began here, long before it was a city.
- Rafael Uribe Uribe Palace of CultureA Gothic palace in light and dark stripes that was never finished: only part of the plan was ever built.
- National PalacePost office, courts and barracks in a 1920s concrete palace that is now a shopping centre.
- Cisneros Square and the Vásquez and Carré buildingsThe old heart of Guayaquil, the market and railway district, turned into a forest of light poles.
- Old Medellín Station of the Antioquia RailwayThe station that, after forty years of works, pulled Medellín out of its isolation among the mountains.
- San Antonio Park and Botero's birdsTwo bronze birds, one shattered and one whole: the way Medellín chose to remember its dead.
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Early evening
Medellín of lost souls, hidden streams and ghosts
- La Veracruz ChurchThe outsiders' chapel: foreigners who died far from home were buried here.
- Berrío Park: gallows, market and buried treasureThe old main square was a market, a place of executions and, tradition says, the keeper of hidden treasure.
- San Ignacio Square and the ParaninfoFranciscan friary, barracks and university: a building from 1803 where, people say, a friar still walks.
- Avenida La Playa: the buried streamBeneath the asphalt flows the Santa Elena stream, and with it the water myths that paisa grandparents used to tell.
- Pablo Tobón Uribe TheatreThe theatre where the myths and legends parade sets off every 8 December, and where a headless Italian is said to roam.
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Dinner
Try Mondongo antioqueño at Mondongo's La 70. Carrera 70 n.º C3-43, Laureles
