Day 1Duomo, fashion and legends
In the morning, "Must-see Milan: from Brera to the Navigli", with La Scala, the Galleria and the Duomo. Have the risotto alla milanese near the Navigli and head back to the centre: the afternoon is free for the Museo del Novecento, which looks onto Piazza Duomo, and a stroll through the Fashion Quadrilateral. At dusk, "Dark Milan: devils, plague-spreaders and skulls", from the Devil's Column to San Bernardino alle Ossa, with a cotoletta for dinner to end on a high.
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Morning
Must-see Milan: from Brera to the Navigli
- Palazzo di BreraA former Jesuit college turned temple of art, with a naked bronze Napoleon in the middle of the courtyard.
- Teatro alla ScalaA modest façade for the world's most famous opera house, born in 1778 on the ruins of a church.
- Galleria Vittorio Emanuele IIMilan's «drawing room»: a glass-and-iron covered street with a bull in the floor that everyone treads on for luck.
- Milan Cathedral (Duomo)Almost six centuries of building, a forest of pinkish marble spires and a golden Madonna watching over the city.
- The Columns of San Lorenzo and the TicineseRoman columns, a basilica with a huge dome and the square where Milan sits down to chat at dusk.
- The Navigli and Vicolo dei LavandaiThe canal that brought the Duomo's marble, a century-old stone washhouse and Milan's favourite bank for an aperitivo.
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Lunch
Try Risotto alla milanese at Trattoria Milanese. Via Santa Marta, 11
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Afternoon
Museo del Novecento
Twentieth-century Italian art in the Arengario, right beside the Duomo: Futurists such as Boccioni and Pellizza da Volpedo's "The Fourth Estate". Its big windows frame the cathedral. A perfect afternoon stop, a couple of steps from the route.
DirectionsFashion Quadrilateral
The district of Via Montenapoleone, Via della Spiga and Via Sant'Andrea, with neoclassical palaces and the windows of the big fashion houses. Even if you don't shop, it's a lovely stroll; the Museo Poldi Pezzoli, on Via Manzoni, is close by.
Directions -
Early evening
Dark Milan: devils, plague-spreaders and skulls
- The Devil's ColumnA Roman column with two holes that, legend says, were made by the devil's horns as he charged at Saint Ambrose.
- The Colonna InfameThis was the home of the barber Gian Giacomo Mora, executed in 1630 as a plague-spreader after a trial under torture.
- Via BagneraA narrow, winding alley where Antonio Boggia, regarded as Italy's first serial killer, carried out his crimes.
- The half-woolly sow of Piazza dei MercantiA sow half covered in wool, carved on a medieval arch, holds the legend of Milan's founding.
- Casa degli OmenoniEight stone giants guard the house of Leone Leoni, sculptor to emperors and a man with a violent temper.
- San Bernardino alle OssaA small church beside Santo Stefano hides a chapel whose walls are covered in skulls and bones.
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Dinner
Try Cotoletta alla milanese at Antica Trattoria della Pesa. Viale Pasubio, 10
