Day 1Green domes, royal treasure and the Chinese Tower
Begin with “The best of Munich”, from the Frauenkirche to the Viktualienmarkt and the Hofbräuhaus, and take your Weißwurst break at Zum Franziskaner before noon, near Odeonsplatz. The route ends at the Eisbach wave; walk ten minutes back to visit the Residenz, then cross the Englischer Garten to the Chinese Tower. Towards sunset, the U-Bahn drops you at Sendlinger Tor, next to the Asamkirche, for the legends route, which ends at Alter Peter. Dinner is Schweinshaxe at the Hofbräuhaus, just around the corner.
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Morning
The best of Munich: from the Frauenkirche to the Eisbach wave
- Frauenkirche, the towers that define the skylineTwo brick towers with green domes that no skyscraper in the centre may outgrow: Munich’s symbol was raised in just twenty years.
- Marienplatz, the heart of MunichA column for a city spared by war, a town hall that looks like a cathedral and figures that dance high up on the tower.
- Viktualienmarkt, the open-air marketMore than a hundred food stalls, a colourful maypole and a beer garden that takes turns serving the beer of every brewery in the city.
- Hofbräuhaus, the court breweryFounded by a duke for his court, opened to the people by a king and famous across half the world: Munich’s best-known beer hall has more history than froth.
- Odeonsplatz and the yellow Theatine churchAn Italian princess promised the most beautiful church if an heir was born. He was, and Munich gained its first Italian Baroque church, as yellow as the southern sun.
- Eisbachwelle, surfing in the centre of MunichHundreds of kilometres from the sea, on the edge of the Englischer Garten, surfers ride a wave that never moves.
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Lunch
Try Weißwurst with pretzel at Weisses Bräuhaus. Tal 7, Múnich
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Afternoon
Residenz
The Wittelsbach palace, the largest city palace in Germany, with the Renaissance Antiquarium and the Schatzkammer, a treasury of crowns and royal jewels. It is two minutes from Odeonsplatz. If you are short of time, just see the treasury.
DirectionsEnglischer Garten and Chinese Tower
Munich’s great park, larger than Central Park, with meadows, streams and the Monopteros temple on a hill. At its heart stands the wooden pagoda of the Chinese Tower and its huge beer garden, perfect for an unhurried beer in the late afternoon.
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Early evening
Devils, dragons and Wolpertingers: legendary Munich
- Asamkirche, the Asam brothers’ private churchAn artist built a church next to his house so he could see the altar from his window. It is dedicated to a saint who, legend says, died for keeping a secret.
- Michaelskirche, the fairy-tale king’s tombA bronze archangel crushes the devil at the door. Down in the crypt lies Ludwig II, the king whose death in a lake no one has ever been able to explain.
- The Wolpertinger at the Hunting MuseumA hare with antlers, duck’s wings and webbed feet: Bavaria has its very own fantastical creature, and in this former church they display it stuffed.
- Frauenkirche: the devil’s footprintBeside the cathedral door there is a black footprint in the floor. Legend says the devil left it in a rage when he discovered he had been tricked.
- Wurmeck, the town hall dragonA copper dragon climbs the corner of the town hall. Legend says it brought the plague to Munich; the records suggest it may all have started with a family coat of arms.
- Alter Peter and the saint with the jewelled skeletonIn Munich’s oldest church, a skeleton covered in jewels, brought from the catacombs of Rome, lies in full view.
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Dinner
Try Schweinshaxe at Hofbräuhaus am Platzl. Platzl 9, Múnich
