Day 1From Chinatown to the Rock
Get going early with "Cable cars, Chinatown and the Beats": from the cable car turntable to Waverly Place, City Lights and Lombard Street. Head down for clam chowder at Boudin on Fisherman's Wharf, then follow the waterfront to Pier 39. Mid-afternoon, your ferry to Alcatraz leaves from Pier 33. Back on shore, walk up to Chinatown for "Secret San Francisco", which starts at Old St. Mary's and ends in Washington Square just as the lights of North Beach come on. Round it all off with cioppino.
-
Morning
Cable cars, Chinatown and the Beats: San Francisco highlights
- The cable car turntableHere the cable cars are turned by hand: climbing the hills since 1873 and saved by a group of determined women.
- Union Square, the square of VictoryPro-Union rallies, a goddess with the face of a future patron of the arts and the hotel that watched the city burn.
- The Dragon Gate, entrance to ChinatownThe gateway to one of North America's oldest Chinatowns, which survived an exclusion law and a plan to move it away.
- Waverly Place, the street of painted balconiesTemples on the top floors, family associations and the most photogenic balconies in Chinatown.
- City Lights, the Beat Generation's bookstoreA poet, a poem put on trial for obscenity and the bookstore that made North Beach the capital of the Beat Generation.
- Lombard Street, the street of eight curvesAn impossible slope tamed with eight curves of brick and flowers, with the bay as a backdrop.
-
Lunch
Try Clam chowder in a sourdough bread bowl at Boudin Bakery. 160 Jefferson Street, Fisherman's Wharf
-
Afternoon
Pier 39 and the sea lions
Fisherman's Wharf's most touristy pier, packed with shops and stalls, but with a free show: the sea lions that have been lounging on its floating docks since 1990. You'll hear them before you see them. It's a short stroll from lunch and minutes from the Alcatraz ferry.
DirectionsAlcatraz Island
The former federal penitentiary that held Al Capone and other notorious inmates, on an island in the middle of the bay. The cellhouse audio tour is superb and the views back to the city are like nowhere else. Ferry tickets tend to sell out, so book ahead.
Directions -
Early evening
Emperors, kidnappings and tunnels: secret San Francisco
- Old St. Mary's and Emperor NortonA clock that warned brothel-goers and, on the corner, the spot where the only emperor of the United States collapsed.
- Ross Alley, the alley of secretsGambling halls behind iron doors, tunnels nobody has ever found and a fortune cookie factory.
- The Old Ship Saloon and the Barbary Coast shanghaiersA bar that began inside a stranded ship, and the dark reputation of sailors kidnapped on the waterfront.
- Coit Tower and the girl who ran with the firemenA tower atop Telegraph Hill, a rebellious heiress and the fire hose nozzle nobody designed.
- Washington Square and the time capsuleA statue holding a message for the future, a wedding that never happened in that church and a tribute to the firemen.
-
Dinner
Try Cioppino at Tadich Grill. 240 California Street
