Day 1Hills, museums and shadows
Begin with «From Santa Lucía Hill to Neruda's house», linking the hill, Lastarria, Fine Arts and La Chascona. Have lunch over a paila marina. The afternoon is free: step into the Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art, beside the Plaza de Armas, then head up the Gran Torre for the mountain view. Be back in time for dusk, when «Santiago of earthquakes, fire and memory» takes you from the old Congress to San Agustín, San Francisco and Londres 38. Dinner is a pastel de choclo.
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Morning
From Santa Lucía Hill to Neruda's house
- Santa Lucía HillThe crag where Santiago began, turned into a garden of terraces, fountains and castles with views over the whole city.
- Lastarria district and Plaza Mulato Gil de CastroCobbled streets, restored townhouses, cafés and museums in the most bohemian corner of central Santiago.
- National Museum of Fine ArtsA palace inspired by the Petit Palais in Paris, with a 115-tonne glass dome, built for Chile's Centenary.
- German FountainThe German community's bronze gift for the Centenary: an allegorical ship sailing towards Chile's future.
- La Chascona, Pablo Neruda's houseThe house Neruda secretly built for Matilde Urrutia on the slope of San Cristóbal, shaped like a ship and named after a head of hair.
- San Cristóbal Hill FunicularA 1925 funicular that climbs the slope of San Cristóbal to the great white Virgin watching over Santiago.
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Lunch
Try Paila marina and caldillo de congrio at Mercado Central. Ismael Valdés Vergara 900, Santiago
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Afternoon
Chilean Museum of Pre-Columbian Art
Housed in the old Royal Customs House beside the Plaza de Armas, it gathers pieces from the peoples of the Americas, from Mesoamerica to the Andes. A compact, very well-designed visit, perfect for escaping the midday sun.
DirectionsSky Costanera Viewpoint
The Gran Torre's observation deck, in Providencia, looks over the city and the snow-capped Andes. Go on a clear day, ideally after recent rain, and leave plenty of time before sunset to get back to the centre.
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Early evening
Santiago of earthquakes, fire and memory
- Gardens of the Former National CongressBeneath this garden stood the Church of the Compañía, where in 1863 a fire killed some two thousand people in little more than an hour.
- Church of San Agustín and the Christ of MayA crucifix that survived the 1647 earthquake with its crown of thorns slipped down to its neck, and a legend linking it to the dreaded Quintrala.
- Church of San FranciscoSantiago's oldest building, raised to shelter the Virgin that Pedro de Valdivia carried on his saddle.
- Londres 38, memorial siteOn a street with a Parisian air, a townhouse that the dictatorship's secret police used as a detention and torture centre.
- Santa Lucía HillThe crag where Valdivia founded Santiago holds the tomb of the man who turned it into a garden, and the memory of the dead who were refused a cemetery.
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Dinner
Try Pastel de choclo at Galindo. Dardignac 098, Bellavista, Providencia
