Insadong and Ssamziegil

You're in Insadong, the neighbourhood Seoul associates with all things traditional: calligraphy brushes, hanji paper, celadon ceramics, art galleries and teahouses tucked away in courtyards. The building in front of you, Ssamziegil, is its contemporary take.

1A composite name

The name Insadong was born in 1914, when the colonial administration merged several old neighbourhoods, among them Gwaninbang and Daesadong, taking one syllable from each. In the Joseon era officials lived here, and the court painters' bureau, the Dohwaseo, was close by.

2Antiques and art

In the early 20th century, as many noble families fell on hard times, their possessions began to be sold in this area, and antique shops sprang up, at first largely run by Japanese dealers. After the war came bookshops, framing workshops and galleries. In 2002 Insadong became Seoul's first protected cultural district, with rules to preserve its traditional shops.

Look at the shop signs: along much of the street, even international chains spell out their names in Hangul.

3Ssamziegil

Opened in 2004, Ssamziegil is a market of small craft and design shops arranged around a ramp that rises in a gentle spiral, as if the street simply carried on upwards. It's a good place to hunt for souvenirs made in Korea.

4What to look for

• The spiral ramp of Ssamziegil.
• The hanji paper and brush shops on the main street.
• The Hangul shop signs, even for foreign brands.