Day 1Gold, hills and shadows
Kick off with «Bogotá's must-sees», from the Gold Museum to the Chorro de Quevedo, and have an ajiaco santafereño for lunch. The afternoon is free: visit the Quinta de Bolívar and ride up Monserrate to see the whole city at your feet. Come down with time to spare and head back to the centre for dusk, when «Bogotá of gold, gunpowder and secrets» really makes sense, with La Veracruz, Gaitán and the Palacio de San Carlos. Close the day with a tamal.
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Morning
Bogotá's must-sees: from the Gold Museum to La Candelaria
- Gold MuseumThe world's largest collection of pre-Hispanic goldwork began in 1939 with a single object: a Quimbaya poporo.
- Church of San FranciscoBogotá's oldest surviving church hides a gilded altarpiece of 1623 behind its austere front.
- Plaza de BolívarColombia's political heart: cathedral, Congress, City Hall and Supreme Court around a bronze Bolívar and thousands of pigeons.
- Colón TheatreAn Italian-style opera house opened in 1892 for the 400th anniversary of Columbus's voyage, where peace was signed in 2016.
- Botero MuseumFernando Botero gave Bogotá his private collection, with Monet, Renoir and Dalí and more than a hundred of his own works, on one condition.
- Chorro de Quevedo SquareThe little square where, by tradition, Bogotá began in 1538 is now La Candelaria's most bohemian corner.
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Lunch
Try Ajiaco santafereño at La Puerta Falsa. Calle 11 n.º 6-50, La Candelaria
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Afternoon
Quinta de Bolívar
A colonial country house at the foot of the hills, given to Simón Bolívar in 1820. It keeps period furniture and a quiet garden. The visit is short and fits nicely on the way to Monserrate.
DirectionsMonserrate Hill
Bogotá's viewpoint, at over 3,100 metres, with a shrine at the top. You go up by cable car or funicular. Best on a clear day and outside the busiest weekends; wrap up, it is cold up there.
Directions -
Early evening
Bogotá of gold, gunpowder and secrets
- Gold MuseumA chief covered in gold on a raft: the Muisca ceremony that the conquistadors turned into an impossible city.
- Church of La VeracruzThe brotherhood that accompanied the condemned buried some 80 patriots shot in 1816 here.
- Site of Gaitán's assassinationOn 9 April 1948, gunshots on this pavement unleashed the Bogotazo. Whether anyone else was behind them is still unknown.
- Palace of JusticeOn 6 and 7 November 1985, a guerrilla siege and the army's recapture left around a hundred dead. Some questions remain open.
- Primatial CathedralFour churches on the same ground, a roof that caved in on the eve of its opening and a founder who never found rest.
- Palacio de San CarlosOn the night of 25 September 1828, Bolívar escaped through a window of this house while the conspirators hunted for him inside.
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Dinner
Try Tamal at La Puerta Falsa. Calle 11 n.º 6-50, La Candelaria
