One day in BucharestFrom Ceaușescu's marble to Dracula's shadow
Start early with 'Bucharest highlights: from Parliament to Cișmigiu lake' – the Palace of the Parliament looks its most imposing in morning light, and the walk ends in the shade of Cișmigiu Gardens. Have sarmale for lunch in the old town, then carry on with 'From Vlad III to the Revolution', from the Old Princely Court to the Romanian Athenaeum by way of Revolution Square. Late in the day, head down to Mihai Vodă for 'Secret Bucharest', which finishes at Stavropoleos, right next to where you'll have ciorbă de burtă for dinner.
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Morning
Bucharest highlights: from Parliament to Cișmigiu lake
- Palace of the ParliamentCeaușescu's former House of the People: 365,000 square metres, 1,100 rooms and an entire neighbourhood wiped off the map.
- Unirii Boulevard and Unirii SquareThe boulevard with which Ceaușescu wanted to outdo the Champs-Élysées, laid out over the heart of old Bucharest.
- Macca-Villacrosse PassageA horseshoe-shaped arcade under a glass roof, the most Parisian corner of «Little Paris».
- Former Royal Palace (National Museum of Art)The palace of Romania's kings, where in 1944 a young king switched sides in the middle of the war.
- Cișmigiu GardensAn unhealthy marsh turned into Bucharest's oldest romantic garden, with a lake, rowing boats and busts of writers.
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Lunch
Try Sarmale with mămăligă at Caru' cu Bere. Strada Stavropoleos 5, București
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Afternoon
From Vlad III to the Revolution: six centuries on Calea Victoriei
- Old Princely Court (Curtea Veche)Here, in 1459, Vlad III signed the document in which the name of Bucharest first appears.
- National Bank of Romania PalaceA Parisian-style bank palace built on the site of a prince's inn, just as Romania was launching its own state and currency.
- CEC PalaceA dome of glass and iron on the site of an old monastery: the temple of thrift of «Little Paris».
- Kretzulescu ChurchThe church of a beheaded prince's daughter, built just as the Phanariot century was beginning.
- Revolution SquareThe balcony where Ceaușescu was booed on 21 December 1989, and the roof from which he fled by helicopter the next day.
- Romanian AthenaeumA concert hall paid for «one leu at a time», where Greater Romania was ratified in 1919.
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Early evening
Secret Bucharest: wandering churches, spies and legends
- Mihai Vodă ChurchA 16th-century church that in 1985 travelled 289 metres on rails to escape the bulldozers.
- Patriarchal HillBucharest's holy hill, where the prince of the union was elected and where a prime minister was murdered and nobody paid for it.
- Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc)The inn of a rich and enigmatic Armenian, an agent of the tsar, where the fate of Bessarabia was negotiated in 1812.
- Old Court: Vlad III without the mythThe palace of the real Dracula, the legend of the shepherd Bucur and the tunnels that popular imagination digs under the Old Town.
- Stavropoleos MonasteryA jewel of carved stone whose courtyard keeps gravestones and fragments of vanished churches.
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Dinner
Try Ciorbă de burtă at Caru' cu Bere. Strada Stavropoleos 5, București
