Day 1The palace, outside and in
Kick off with 'Bucharest highlights: from Parliament to Cișmigiu lake', from Ceaușescu's palace to the Macca-Villacrosse Passage and the Former Royal Palace. Have sarmale for lunch in the old town, then head back to the Parliament in the early afternoon, this time for the guided tour. Afterwards, wind down among the books on Lipscani. At dusk, begin 'Secret Bucharest' at Mihai Vodă Church, which once travelled on rails, and finish at Stavropoleos, a few steps from dinner: ciorbă de burtă at Caru' cu Bere.
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Morning
Bucharest highlights: from Parliament to Cișmigiu lake
- Palace of the ParliamentCeaușescu's former House of the People: 365,000 square metres, 1,100 rooms and an entire neighbourhood wiped off the map.
- Unirii Boulevard and Unirii SquareThe boulevard with which Ceaușescu wanted to outdo the Champs-Élysées, laid out over the heart of old Bucharest.
- Macca-Villacrosse PassageA horseshoe-shaped arcade under a glass roof, the most Parisian corner of «Little Paris».
- Former Royal Palace (National Museum of Art)The palace of Romania's kings, where in 1944 a young king switched sides in the middle of the war.
- Cișmigiu GardensAn unhealthy marsh turned into Bucharest's oldest romantic garden, with a lake, rowing boats and busts of writers.
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Lunch
Try Sarmale with mămăligă at Caru' cu Bere. Strada Stavropoleos 5, București
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Afternoon
Inside the Palace of the Parliament
In the morning you see it from outside; inside, the marble staircases, crystal chandeliers and colossal halls tell another story. Visits are guided only and usually need booking ahead and photo ID, so check times and tour options.
DirectionsCărturești Carusel bookshop
A bookshop that opened in 2015 in a restored building on Lipscani Street, with white balconies wrapped around a tall, light-filled atrium. There's a café on the top floor. Right in the old town, it's a perfect pause before the mystery route.
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Early evening
Secret Bucharest: wandering churches, spies and legends
- Mihai Vodă ChurchA 16th-century church that in 1985 travelled 289 metres on rails to escape the bulldozers.
- Patriarchal HillBucharest's holy hill, where the prince of the union was elected and where a prime minister was murdered and nobody paid for it.
- Manuc's Inn (Hanul lui Manuc)The inn of a rich and enigmatic Armenian, an agent of the tsar, where the fate of Bessarabia was negotiated in 1812.
- Old Court: Vlad III without the mythThe palace of the real Dracula, the legend of the shepherd Bucur and the tunnels that popular imagination digs under the Old Town.
- Stavropoleos MonasteryA jewel of carved stone whose courtyard keeps gravestones and fragments of vanished churches.
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Dinner
Try Ciorbă de burtă at Caru' cu Bere. Strada Stavropoleos 5, București
