Day 1Design, crowns and legends
Set off early on "Copenhagen highlights: from Tivoli to the Little Mermaid", which takes you from Strøget to Nyhavn, Amalienborg and Marmorkirken. After the Little Mermaid, walk back down Bredgade for smørrebrød at Sankt Annæ. The afternoon is for going inside: the Designmuseum, on the same street, then Rosenborg, whose gardens are made for a lie-down on the grass. From there, Købmagergade and Strøget lead back to City Hall Square for "Traitors, dragons and spirals": Gråbrødretorv, Børsen and the spire of Vor Frelsers Kirke. End in Christianshavn with stegt flæsk at Christianshavns Færgecafé.
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Morning
Copenhagen highlights: from Tivoli to the Little Mermaid
- Tivoli GardensOne of the world’s oldest amusement parks, born on the old ramparts with a king’s blessing.
- Strøget and AmagertorvThe pedestrian street that changed European cities, and a fountain of storks that many swear are herons.
- NyhavnThe canal of colourful houses was once a harbour of sailors and taverns and, for years, Andersen’s home.
- Amalienborg PalaceFour twin palaces built for four noblemen that ended up as the royal family’s home after a fire.
- The Marble Church (Marmorkirken)A church that lay in ruins for almost a century and a half before a banker saw it finished.
- The Little Mermaid (Den lille Havfrue)A small statue with a turbulent life: two beheadings, a stolen arm and a trip to China.
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Lunch
Try Smørrebrød at Restaurant Schønnemann. Hauser Plads 16
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Afternoon
Designmuseum Danmark
Denmark's design museum fills the former Frederik's Hospital, an 18th-century rococo building on Bredgade. Its collection of chairs alone explains the country's reputation. It's a few minutes from Amalienborg and has a lovely café in the courtyard.
DirectionsRosenborg Castle
Christian IV, the builder king of our tours, put up this Renaissance castle as a pleasure palace. Its basement treasury holds the Danish Crown Jewels and royal regalia. Around it lies Kongens Have, the city's oldest royal garden. Booking ahead is wise in high season.
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Early evening
Traitors, dragons and spirals: hidden Copenhagen
- The Lur Blowers (Lurblæserne)Two Bronze Age musicians atop a column, and a cheeky legend every Copenhagener knows.
- Gråbrødretorv and the Pillar of ShameA charming square where a traitor’s mansion once stood, torn down so that no one would forget his name.
- Christiansborg and the Blue TowerBeneath the palace of the three powers lie the foundations of the tower where a princess spent almost 22 years as a prisoner.
- Børsen, the Dragon Stock ExchangeFour entwined dragons guarded the old Stock Exchange from fire for almost four centuries, until one April morning in 2024.
- Church of Our Saviour (Vor Frelsers Kirke)A golden staircase coiling around the outside of the spire, and an architect who, legend says, leapt to his death.
- Christiania, the FreetownA former barracks occupied in 1971 that became Scandinavia’s most famous social experiment.
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Dinner
Try Stegt flæsk med persillesovs at Christianshavns Færgecafé. Strandgade 50
