One day in MumbaiFrom the harbour to the Queen's Necklace
Start early, before the heat, with the South Mumbai highlights route: the Gateway of India before the crowds, Leopold Cafe, the Regal Cinema and the Art Deco front of Oval Maidan. Have berry pulao at Britannia in Ballard Estate, which usually opens only at lunchtime. In the afternoon, the history route returns to the Gateway to tell a different story, then heads north past Flora Fountain and CSMT station to Mumba Devi; Crawford Market makes a shady break. A taxi takes you back to the Taj for the mystery route, ending on Marine Drive at sunset. Dinner: pav bhaji at Chowpatty.
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Morning
South Mumbai highlights: from the Gateway of India to Oval Maidan
- Gateway of IndiaMumbai's emblem: a basalt arch facing the sea, with the Taj on one side and the Elephanta launches on the other.
- Leopold Cafe and Colaba CausewayA café opened by Zoroastrian Iranians in 1871, on Colaba's liveliest street.
- Regal Circle and the Regal CinemaA roundabout with a Victorian fountain and the first great Art Deco cinema in the city of cinema.
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum)An Indo-Saracenic palace with a white dome, built to honour a prince and used as a war hospital before it became a museum.
- Keneseth Eliyahoo SynagogueThe blue synagogue of the Baghdadi Jews, a witness to Mumbai's many faiths.
- Oval MaidanA great cricket ground between Victorian Gothic and Art Deco, a World Heritage Site.
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Lunch
Try Berry pulao and kheema pav at the Irani cafés at Britannia & Co.. Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Bombay
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Afternoon
From seven islands to megacity: Mumbai of the port, cotton and freedom
- Gateway of IndiaAn arch by the sea that welcomed a king in 1911 and saw off the last British troops in 1948.
- Horniman Circle and the Town HallThe old heart of the British Fort, where cotton brokers traded under the trees before there was a stock exchange.
- Flora Fountain and Hutatma ChowkA Roman goddess where a gate in the city walls once stood, and a square dedicated to the martyrs of Maharashtra.
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus (Victoria Terminus)The Gothic cathedral of the railways, built where India's first passenger train set off in 1853.
- Crawford Market (Mahatma Jyotiba Phule Mandai)A Victorian market with reliefs by Rudyard Kipling's father, where Mumbai still shops for fruit, spices and everything else.
- Mumba Devi TempleThe goddess of the Koli fishermen, who gave Mumbai its name, in the heart of the jewellers' quarter.
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Early evening
Desperate architects, a missing horse and a tower that told the time to a blind woman
- Taj Mahal Palace HotelA hotel that, legend says, was built back to front and born of a racist snub. Historians doubt both stories.
- Kala Ghoda, the black horseA district called 'black horse' for half a century without a horse, next to an iron hotel that hosted India's first film show.
- Rajabai Clock TowerA tower modelled on Big Ben, named after a mother who, tradition says, ate her supper by the sound of its bells.
- Bombay High CourtA palace of justice where Tilak was tried and where, it is said, the stonemasons carved a monkey holding the scales.
- Marine Drive, the Queen's NecklaceA three-kilometre promenade on land taken from the sea, which turns into a necklace of lights at night.
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Dinner
Try Pav bhaji at Sardar Refreshments (Sardar Pav Bhaji). Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya Marg, junto a la cochera de autobuses de Tardeo, Bombay
