Day 1Postcards, tides and sunset
Start early with the South Mumbai highlights route, from the Gateway of India to Oval Maidan by way of Leopold Cafe and the Regal Cinema. Have berry pulao at Britannia, then, in the afternoon heat, take a taxi up to Mahalaxmi, where Dhobi Ghat and Haji Ali are close together. Head back south for the mystery route, which starts at the Taj and finishes on Marine Drive as the sun goes down. For dinner, pav bhaji at the Girgaum Chowpatty stalls at the far end of the promenade.
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Morning
South Mumbai highlights: from the Gateway of India to Oval Maidan
- Gateway of IndiaMumbai's emblem: a basalt arch facing the sea, with the Taj on one side and the Elephanta launches on the other.
- Leopold Cafe and Colaba CausewayA café opened by Zoroastrian Iranians in 1871, on Colaba's liveliest street.
- Regal Circle and the Regal CinemaA roundabout with a Victorian fountain and the first great Art Deco cinema in the city of cinema.
- Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (Prince of Wales Museum)An Indo-Saracenic palace with a white dome, built to honour a prince and used as a war hospital before it became a museum.
- Keneseth Eliyahoo SynagogueThe blue synagogue of the Baghdadi Jews, a witness to Mumbai's many faiths.
- Oval MaidanA great cricket ground between Victorian Gothic and Art Deco, a World Heritage Site.
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Lunch
Try Berry pulao and kheema pav at the Irani cafés at Britannia & Co.. Wakefield House, 11 Sprott Road, Ballard Estate, Bombay
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Afternoon
Dhobi Ghat
Mumbai's huge open-air laundry, dating from 1890: hundreds of stone wash pens where the dhobis scrub, beat and hang out the washing of half the city. The best view is from the bridge by Mahalaxmi station; look with respect and don't wander in without someone local.
DirectionsHaji Ali Dargah
A white 15th-century mosque and tomb dedicated to the Sufi saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari, on an islet joined to the shore by a causeway that disappears at high tide. Check the tide tables, dress modestly and go in mid-afternoon.
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Early evening
Desperate architects, a missing horse and a tower that told the time to a blind woman
- Taj Mahal Palace HotelA hotel that, legend says, was built back to front and born of a racist snub. Historians doubt both stories.
- Kala Ghoda, the black horseA district called 'black horse' for half a century without a horse, next to an iron hotel that hosted India's first film show.
- Rajabai Clock TowerA tower modelled on Big Ben, named after a mother who, tradition says, ate her supper by the sound of its bells.
- Bombay High CourtA palace of justice where Tilak was tried and where, it is said, the stonemasons carved a monkey holding the scales.
- Marine Drive, the Queen's NecklaceA three-kilometre promenade on land taken from the sea, which turns into a necklace of lights at night.
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Dinner
Try Pav bhaji at Sardar Refreshments (Sardar Pav Bhaji). Pandit Madan Mohan Malviya Marg, junto a la cochera de autobuses de Tardeo, Bombay
