Day 1The city of kings
Set off first thing from the Barbican on "The Royal Road: from the Barbican to Wawel Castle", which passes St Mary's and the Church of Saints Peter and Paul before climbing the hill. Drop down to Grodzka for pierogi, then head back up to Wawel for your timed visit to the State Rooms, followed by the museum under the Rynek. As the light softens, start "Kraków of dragons and sorcerers" at St Mary's; it finishes by the dragon, a short stroll from dinner and a bowl of żurek.
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Morning
The Royal Road: from the Barbican to Wawel Castle
- Barbican and St Florian's GateA round brick bastion from 1499 and the Gothic gate through which kings and ambassadors entered: this is where the Royal Road begins.
- St Mary's BasilicaThe burghers' church of Kraków holds one of the largest Gothic altarpieces in the world, carved by Veit Stoss between 1477 and 1489.
- Rynek Główny and the Cloth HallOne of Europe's largest medieval squares, laid out in 1257, where a duke paid homage to the king and Kościuszko swore to lead an uprising.
- Church of Saints Peter and PaulKraków's first great Baroque church, with twelve stone apostles standing guard over Grodzka Street.
- Kanonicza StreetThe street of the cathedral canons: Gothic and Renaissance houses, the chronicler Długosz and a young priest called Karol Wojtyła.
- Wawel Hill: castle and cathedralFor centuries the centre of Polish power: kings were crowned and buried here, and the nation's heroes rest here too.
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Lunch
Try Pierogi at Bar Mleczny Pod Temidą. ul. Grodzka 43, Cracovia
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Afternoon
Wawel State Rooms (inside)
The route leaves you in the castle courtyard; inside are the royal Renaissance chambers and Sigismund Augustus's collection of Flemish tapestries. Tickets are timed and often sell out, so book a slot for straight after lunch.
DirectionsRynek Underground
A museum beneath the main square, opened in 2010 after years of excavation: medieval streets, stalls and graves several metres below your feet, brought to life with models and screens. The perfect warm-up for the legends walk, which starts right above it.
Directions -
Early evening
Kraków of dragons and sorcerers
- St Mary's: the broken-off bugle callEvery hour a trumpet sounds from the tallest tower and stops dead. The explanation everyone repeats dates from the 20th century.
- Cloth Hall: the knife and the pigeonsAn iron knife hangs under the arches of the Cloth Hall. Legend links it to a murder between brothers; history, to market justice.
- Collegium Maius: magic at the universityCopernicus studied in the Jagiellonian University's oldest building; according to a 16th-century text, magic was taught here too.
- St Andrew's: the church that held out against the MongolsAn 11th-century Romanesque church built like a fortress: according to Jan Długosz, locals held out here when the Mongols sacked Kraków in 1241.
- Wawel Cathedral: dragon bones and a cursed tombHuge bones hang beside the door of the cathedral of Poland's kings. Tradition says that if they ever fall, the world will end.
- Smocza Jama and the Wawel DragonAt the foot of the hill, a cave and a fire-breathing bronze dragon recall Kraków's oldest legend.
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Dinner
Try Żurek at Wierzynek. Rynek Główny 16, Cracovia
