One day in NiceFrom the sea to the hill
Start around nine with “The Best of Nice: From the Negresco to Castle Hill”: the pink-domed hotel, the Promenade des Anglais and its blue chairs, Place Masséna and then the Cours Saleya while the market is still in full swing. Lunch on socca straight from the oven. In the afternoon, “Before Nice Was French” takes you from the Prefecture Palace to Port Lympia and drops you by the sea at Rauba Capeù. Rest on the pebbles, then, as the sun drops, climb with “Angels, Sieges and Phantoms” up to Bellanda Tower. Dinner: daube in Vieux-Nice.
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Morning
The Best of Nice: From the Negresco to Castle Hill
- Hotel NegrescoThe pink-domed palace dreamed up by a former Romanian head waiter and saved by a woman who turned it into a museum.
- Promenade des AnglaisA dirt track paid for by English winter visitors that became the most famous seafront in France.
- Place MassénaNice's great red drawing room, with Italian-style arcades, chequerboard paving and seven figures that light up at night.
- Promenade du PaillonA buried river, a demolished bus station and, on top, the garden where the Niçois play in the mist.
- Cours SaleyaNice's most colourful market: flowers, vegetables from nearby market gardens and the smell of freshly baked socca.
- Castle Hill WaterfallA man-made waterfall over the ruins of the keep, with the whole Bay of Angels at your feet.
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Lunch
Try Socca at Chez René Socca. 2 rue Miralhéti, Niza
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Afternoon
Before Nice Was French: The City of the House of Savoy
- Prefecture PalaceThe palace of the Dukes of Savoy and the Kings of Sardinia, where Nice stopped being Piedmontese in 1860.
- Cours SaleyaThe promenade of Nice's nobility under the Kings of Sardinia, squeezed between the old town and the sea.
- Palais LascarisThe home of a family of counts who bore the eagle of the Byzantine emperors on their coat of arms.
- Place GaribaldiAn arcaded square built as the gateway to the Turin road, now named after Nice's most rebellious son.
- Port LympiaA harbour dug out of dry land on the orders of a King of Sardinia, which took more than a century to finish.
- Rauba Capeù War MemorialA giant urn carved into the rock of Castle Hill, where Nice engraved the names of the sons it lost in the First World War.
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Early evening
Angels, Sieges and Phantoms on the Hill of Nice
- Sainte-Réparate CathedralThe cathedral of a teenage saint whose boat, legend says, was pushed by angels all the way to the beach at Nice.
- Catherine Ségurane ReliefA washerwoman armed with her laundry paddle against the Janissaries: the heroine of Nice who may never have existed.
- Castle Hill CemeteryA marble cemetery on the hilltop, where the author of The Phantom of the Opera lies near the victims of a theatre fire.
- Cathedral and Castle RuinsThis is where the first Nice stood: a cathedral and a fortress that Louis XIV had blown up with gunpowder in 1706.
- Bellanda TowerA round tower above the cliff, where Berlioz dreamed up an overture and where you understand why this is the Bay of Angels.
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Dinner
Try Daube niçoise with ravioli at Chez Acchiardo. 38 rue Droite, Niza
