Day 1Market, painters and ghosts
Set off early with “The Best of Nice: From the Negresco to Castle Hill”, from the pink-domed hotel to the Castle Hill waterfall, passing the Cours Saleya market while it still smells of flowers. Head down for socca, then, early in the afternoon, take the bus up to Cimiez: the Chagall museum first, then an uphill stroll to the Matisse, among olive trees and Roman ruins. Back in Vieux-Nice, “Angels, Sieges and Phantoms” climbs from Sainte-Réparate to Bellanda Tower with the bay glowing below. Finish with a plate of daube.
-
Morning
The Best of Nice: From the Negresco to Castle Hill
- Hotel NegrescoThe pink-domed palace dreamed up by a former Romanian head waiter and saved by a woman who turned it into a museum.
- Promenade des AnglaisA dirt track paid for by English winter visitors that became the most famous seafront in France.
- Place MassénaNice's great red drawing room, with Italian-style arcades, chequerboard paving and seven figures that light up at night.
- Promenade du PaillonA buried river, a demolished bus station and, on top, the garden where the Niçois play in the mist.
- Cours SaleyaNice's most colourful market: flowers, vegetables from nearby market gardens and the smell of freshly baked socca.
- Castle Hill WaterfallA man-made waterfall over the ruins of the keep, with the whole Bay of Angels at your feet.
-
Lunch
Try Socca at Chez René Socca. 2 rue Miralhéti, Niza
-
Afternoon
Marc Chagall National Museum
Chagall attended its opening in 1973. It was built for his Biblical Message: seventeen large canvases on Genesis, Exodus and the Song of Songs. There's a Mediterranean garden and an auditorium with stained glass by the painter himself. It sits halfway up the hill to Cimiez.
DirectionsMatisse Museum
A red 17th-century Genoese villa high up in Cimiez, beside the Roman ruins of Cemenelum and the olive grove of the arena gardens. It holds work from every stage of the painter's career, right up to the paper cut-outs. Matisse is buried close by, in the monastery cemetery.
Directions -
Early evening
Angels, Sieges and Phantoms on the Hill of Nice
- Sainte-Réparate CathedralThe cathedral of a teenage saint whose boat, legend says, was pushed by angels all the way to the beach at Nice.
- Catherine Ségurane ReliefA washerwoman armed with her laundry paddle against the Janissaries: the heroine of Nice who may never have existed.
- Castle Hill CemeteryA marble cemetery on the hilltop, where the author of The Phantom of the Opera lies near the victims of a theatre fire.
- Cathedral and Castle RuinsThis is where the first Nice stood: a cathedral and a fortress that Louis XIV had blown up with gunpowder in 1706.
- Bellanda TowerA round tower above the cliff, where Berlioz dreamed up an overture and where you understand why this is the Bay of Angels.
-
Dinner
Try Daube niçoise with ravioli at Chez Acchiardo. 38 rue Droite, Niza
