Day 1Empire, mausoleum and legend
Start with the route «New Delhi highlights», from India Gate to Bangla Sahib, while the heat still holds back. For lunch cross to the north and order parathas in Paranthe Wali Gali. The afternoon is looser: take a taxi down to Humayun's Tomb, then head back towards Raj Ghat, already close to the sunset route. That one, «Djinns, bloody gates and a lost sultana», runs from Feroz Shah Kotla to the Jama Masjid and gains from low light. Dinner is a freshly fried jalebi.
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Morning
New Delhi highlights: from India Gate to the pool of Bangla Sahib
- India GateA 42-metre triumphal arch honouring more than 70,000 Indian soldiers who died in the First World War.
- Agrasen ki BaoliA medieval stepwell hidden among tower blocks, with 108 steps leading down into silence.
- Connaught PlaceThe great white-colonnaded circus the British built to give their new capital a commercial heart.
- Jantar MantarIn 1724 an astronomer-maharaja built giant stone instruments here to measure the sky with the naked eye.
- Gurdwara Bangla SahibThe bungalow of a raja where the Sikhs' child Guru died in 1664, now with a sacred pool and a kitchen that never closes.
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Lunch
Try Parathas from Paranthe Wali Gali at Pandit Gaya Prasad Shiv Charan. Paranthe Wali Gali, Chandni Chowk, Vieja Delhi
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Afternoon
Humayun's Tomb
India's first great Mughal garden tomb, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, built in the 16th century by Humayun's widow. Its red sandstone and white marble foreshadow the Taj Mahal. It sits in the south: take a taxi or the metro and give it an hour and a half.
DirectionsRaj Ghat
A park with Mahatma Gandhi's memorial, a black marble platform where he was cremated in 1948. It is a calm place of lawns and trees, a few minutes from the Red Fort and Feroz Shah Kotla. You go barefoot. A good place to breathe before the sunset route.
Directions -
Early evening
Djinns, bloody gates and a lost sultana
- Feroz Shah KotlaThe ruins of a 14th-century sultan, an Ashokan pillar nobody could read for centuries and letters addressed to the djinns.
- Khooni Darwaza, the Bloody GateA 16th-century gate whose name only appears in 1857, when a British officer shot three Mughal princes here.
- Turkman GateOld Delhi's southern gate is named after a Sufi saint who lived here when all this was wilderness.
- Tomb of Razia SultanA tiny courtyard in a back lane may hold the only woman who ever reigned as sultan of Delhi.
- Jama Masjid: relics and a legendary cupThe mosque is named after a mythical cup that showed the whole world, and it keeps relics attributed to the Prophet.
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Dinner
Try Jalebi at Old Famous Jalebi Wala. Esquina de Dariba Kalan con Chandni Chowk, Vieja Delhi
