Day 1Harbour, peak and temples
Begin with “From the Star Ferry to Temple Street: Hong Kong highlights”, from Central Pier to the Tsim Sha Tsui Clock Tower and Temple Street. Ride the MTR back to Central for dim sum at Luk Yu Tea House. From there, take the Peak Tram up Victoria Peak and walk Lugard Road; come down with time to spare and catch a tram west to Sheung Wan. At dusk, “Ghosts, oaths and feng shui at dusk” starts at Kwong Fook I Tsz and ends beneath the Bank of China Tower. Have siu mei for dinner at Yung Kee.
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Morning
From the Star Ferry to Temple Street: Hong Kong highlights
- Star Ferry, Central PierA ferry founded in 1888 whose boats are named after stars, thanks to a Tennyson poem.
- Tsim Sha Tsui Clock TowerAll that remains of the terminus of the railway to Canton, with the scars of war on its walls.
- Avenue of StarsA waterfront promenade dedicated to Hong Kong cinema, with Bruce Lee on guard and the best view of the island.
- The Peninsula HotelThe grand 1928 hotel where, at Christmas 1941, the British governor surrendered to the Japanese army.
- Temple StreetKowloon's most famous night market, «Men's Street», with its entrance arch and its claypot rice.
- Tin Hau Temple, Yau Ma TeiThe temple of the sea goddess that gave Temple Street its name, surrounded by banyans and fortune-tellers.
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Lunch
Try Dim sum, the yum cha ritual at Luk Yu Tea House (陸羽茶室). Stanley Street 24-26, Central, Hong Kong
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Afternoon
Victoria Peak and the Peak Tram
The funicular climbs from Garden Road, next to St John's Cathedral, to the island's most famous summit. At the top, Lugard Road is a level walk with the best view of the harbour. Queues for the tram are often long, so check ahead and go early.
DirectionsThe “Ding Ding” tram
Double-decker trams have run along the north of the island since 1904, nicknamed after the sound of their bell. They are slow and cheap, and you pay as you get off, usually with Octopus. Grab a seat upstairs and let it carry you to Sheung Wan.
Directions -
Early evening
Ghosts, oaths and feng shui at dusk
- Kwong Fook I Tsz, the temple of soulsA shrine for those who died far from their homeland, on the street where the 1894 plague broke out.
- Man Mo TempleThe temple of the god of literature and the god of war, where oaths were sworn by cutting off a chicken's head.
- Pak Tsz Lane, the revolutionaries' hideoutA hidden courtyard where plots were hatched against the Qing dynasty, next to the spot where a revolutionary was murdered; his grave bears only a number.
- Duddell Street Steps and Gas LampsHong Kong's last gas lamps and the name of a merchant linked to the mass poisoning of 1857.
- HSBC Building and its lionsTwo bronze lions that survived the war and a rooftop of «cannons» behind a feng shui legend.
- Bank of China TowerThe skyscraper feng shui masters compare to a knife, built where a building once stood that had to be exorcised.
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Dinner
Try Siu mei: char siu and roast goose at Yung Kee (鏞記酒家). Wellington Street 32-40, Central, Hong Kong
