Day 1Classics, a market and legendary lanes
Begin with the Vienna must-sees route, from the cathedral to the Karlskirche, then head for Figlmüller and a Wiener Schnitzel. The free afternoon stays close to Karlsplatz: a stroll through the Naschmarkt and a visit to the Secession. Towards sunset, go back to the centre for the mystery route, with the Stock im Eisen, the Blutgasse and the Basilisk House, all better in low light. Finish with a Tafelspitz at the Griechenbeisl, which is also the last stop.
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Morning
Vienna's must-sees: from St Stephen's to the Karlskirche
- St Stephen's CathedralThe heart of Vienna: a Romanesque Giants' Door, a 136-metre Gothic spire and a coloured roof that rose from the ashes of 1945.
- The Graben and the Plague ColumnA Roman ditch turned into Vienna's most elegant promenade, with the monument an emperor raised in thanks for the end of the plague at its centre.
- Michaelerplatz and the HofburgThe grand gateway to the palace from which the Habsburgs ruled for more than six centuries, facing a façade that scandalised Vienna.
- AlbertinaA palace on a surviving stretch of the city wall, home to Dürer's hare and around a million drawings and prints.
- Vienna State OperaThe first great building on the Ringstrasse, so savaged by critics at its opening that neither of its architects lived to see it finished.
- KarlskircheAn emperor's vow during the plague became Vienna's most spectacular Baroque church, with two columns borrowed from ancient Rome.
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Lunch
Try Wiener Schnitzel at Figlmüller. Wollzeile 5, Viena
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Afternoon
Naschmarkt
Vienna's great market, with stalls of spices, olives, cheeses and food from all over the world. It is a few minutes' walk from Karlsplatz, so it fits neatly after the end of the route. Go before it gets crowded.
DirectionsSecession
The Art Nouveau building with the golden dome of laurel leaves, a short walk from the market. It houses Klimt's Beethoven Frieze. Even if you do not go in, it is worth seeing from outside as the face of Viennese Jugendstil.
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Early evening
Vienna of the basilisk: devils, plagues and an unsolved death
- The house where Mozart diedHere, in the small hours of 5 December 1791, Mozart died with a half-finished Requiem and a rumour that has never quite gone away.
- The Stock im EisenA medieval spruce trunk bristling with nails, kept behind glass on Vienna's busiest corner, with a padlock no one has ever been able to open.
- The unfinished tower of St Stephen'sA tower left halfway, a master builder who fell from the scaffolding and a Christ who, they say, had toothache.
- Blutgasse, the street of bloodA medieval lane with an unsettling name, a massacre of Templars that never happened and Vienna's most famous resident just round the corner.
- The Basilisk HouseAccording to legend, a monster whose breath could kill appeared in a baker's well. Its stone figure still keeps watch over the street.
- Griechenbeisl and dear AugustinVienna's oldest tavern keeps alive the memory of a piper who, legend says, slept off a drinking bout in a plague pit and climbed out singing.
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Dinner
Try Tafelspitz at Griechenbeisl. Fleischmarkt 11, Viena
