One day in CairoThree Cairos in one day
Start early with “From the Paris of the Nile to the Great Bazaar”: Tahrir Square, the Egyptian Museum and elegant Talaat Harb Street lead you to Khan el-Khalili before the heat sets in. For lunch, a koshari at Abou Tarek is worth the small detour. In the afternoon, “Caliphs and Sultans” follows al-Muizz Street from Bab al-Nasr to Bab Zuwayla, right beside the bazaar. As the sun drops, take a taxi to Coptic Cairo for “Moving Mountains and Cradles on the Nile”, with the Hanging Church and the Mosque of Amr. Have ful and taamiya for dinner.
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Morning
From the Paris of the Nile to the Great Bazaar
- Tahrir SquareKhedive Ismail's square, renamed ‘Liberation’, where in 2011 eighteen days of protest brought down a president.
- The Egyptian Museum on Tahrir SquareThe salmon-pink palace that held Tutankhamun's treasure for a century, with its founder's tomb in the garden.
- Talaat Harb SquareA belle époque roundabout where a banker in a tarboosh replaced one of Napoleon's French officers.
- Opera Square and the Statue of Ibrahim PashaHere stood the opera house where ‘Aida’ had its premiere; today its site is a car park, watched over by a bronze horseman pointing to the horizon.
- Khan el-KhaliliCairo's great bazaar was born in the 14th century on top of the Fatimid caliphs' tomb, whose bones ended up on a rubbish heap.
- Al-Azhar MosqueMore than a thousand years of prayer and study, five minarets and a revolt against Napoleon that began in its courtyard.
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Lunch
Try Koshari at Koshary Abou Tarek. Calle Champollion, esquina con calle Maarouf, centro (Wust el-Balad)
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Afternoon
Caliphs and Sultans: from Bab al-Nasr to Bab Zuwayla
- Bab al-Nasr and the Fatimid WallsTwo stone towers from 1087 guard the northern entrance to the city of the caliphs, and high up you can still read the names of Napoleon's officers.
- The Mosque of al-HakimThe great mosque of the most unpredictable Fatimid caliph, who banned molokhia and vanished one night in the hills.
- The al-Aqmar MosqueA facade from 1125 that was the first in Cairo to be decorated from top to bottom, with a great shell and two names hidden at its heart.
- The Qalawun Complex at Bayn al-QasraynA hospital, a school and a mausoleum raised in about thirteen months on the ruins of a caliph's palace.
- The Complex of Sultan al-GhuriTwin buildings facing each other across the street, and a mausoleum still waiting for a sultan whose body was never found.
- Bab ZuwaylaThe southern gate of the Fatimid city, crowned by two minarets, where the last Mamluk sultan was hanged.
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Early evening
Moving Mountains and Cradles on the Nile
- The Hanging Church (al-Muallaqa)A church suspended over a Roman gate, where, according to Coptic tradition, a patriarch prayed for three days to move a mountain.
- St George and the Roman Tower of BabylonA round church on a Roman tower, in a fortress that ancient writers said was founded by prisoners brought from Babylon.
- Abu Serga and the Crypt of the Holy FamilyBeneath the altar of this church lies the cave where, according to tradition, Mary, Joseph and the infant Jesus rested on their flight into Egypt.
- The Ben Ezra Synagogue and its GenizaA well linked to Moses by tradition, and a storeroom that kept hundreds of thousands of papers from medieval life for centuries.
- The Mosque of Amr ibn al-AsEgypt's first mosque, on the spot where, according to tradition, a dove nested on a general's tent.
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Dinner
Try Ful medames and taamiya at Felfela. Calle Huda Shaarawi, 15, centro (Wust el-Balad)
