One day in Ho Chi Minh CityFrom the Ben Thanh clock to the demon-chasing general
Start early, before the heat builds, with “Saigon highlights: from the market to the river”: the Ben Thanh Market clock tower, the Bitexco tower, Nguyễn Huệ Boulevard and the river by Mê Linh Square. Pick up a bánh mì at Như Lan, right by the Bitexco, and rest in the shade. In the afternoon, a short Grab ride takes you to “From Saïgon to 1975”, which runs from the War Remnants Museum to Independence Palace and Nhà Rồng Wharf. At dusk, “Spies, dragons and weeping statues” sets off from the Hotel Continental and climbs to Tân Định, where bánh xèo awaits.
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Morning
Saigon highlights: from the market to the river
- Ben Thanh Market (Chợ Bến Thành)The 1914 market whose clock is the city's unofficial symbol, built on top of an old marsh.
- Bitexco Financial TowerA 262-metre skyscraper inspired by a lotus bud, with a helipad jutting out halfway up.
- Nguyễn Huệ BoulevardA canal that became a boulevard and, in 2015, the city's great pedestrian square, with an apartment block full of cafés.
- Saigon Opera House (Nhà hát Thành phố)A theatre of 1900 inspired by the Petit Palais in Paris, which served as South Vietnam's parliament and became a theatre again in 1976.
- Hotel MajesticThe hotel the tycoon Hui Bon Hoa opened in 1925 on the riverfront, where the old rue Catinat ends.
- Mê Linh Square and Bạch Đằng WharfA square that has changed statues several times, and a general who since 1967 has been pointing at the river.
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Lunch
Try Bánh mì at Bánh mì Như Lan. Đường Hàm Nghi, 50
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Afternoon
From Saïgon to 1975: the century that changed the city
- War Remnants MuseumVietnam's most visited museum tells the war from the Vietnamese point of view, and its name has changed three times.
- Independence Palace (Dinh Độc Lập)South Vietnam's presidential palace, where the war ended with two tanks at its gates around noon on 30 April 1975.
- Notre-Dame Cathedral Basilica of SaigonA red-brick cathedral the French built in three years, now undergoing a restoration that has lasted almost a decade.
- Saigon Central Post OfficeA colonial post office often credited to Eiffel, though its real architect was Alfred Foulhoux, and it still sells stamps.
- Former City Hall (Hôtel de Ville)The Hôtel de Ville the French took eleven years to build is now the seat of the city's People's Committee.
- Nhà Rồng Wharf (Dragon House)A French shipping company's headquarters with dragons on the roof, whose wharf the young man who became Hồ Chí Minh left in 1911.
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Early evening
Spies, dragons and weeping statues
- Hotel ContinentalFor a century, Saigon's oldest hotel was the best place to find out everything, and for others to find out about you.
- 22 Gia Long Street (22 Lý Tự Trọng)The rooftop in the most famous photo of the fall of Saigon, which for decades was thought to have been taken at the US embassy.
- The weeping Virgin (Notre-Dame Cathedral)A Carrara marble statue, a pedestal left empty for fourteen years and tears that drew thousands of people in 2005.
- Turtle Lake (Hồ Con Rùa)A roundabout with a 1960s monument and a geomantic legend: a turtle to hold down a dragon's tail.
- Jade Emperor Pagoda (Chùa Ngọc Hoàng)A Cantonese temple full of smoke, turtles and fertility goddesses which, according to a Vietnamese scholar, also hosted secret meetings.
- Trần Hưng Đạo TempleThe temple of the general who defeated the Mongols, turned by popular devotion into a saint who can drive away evil spirits.
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Dinner
Try Bánh xèo at Bánh xèo 46A. Đường Đinh Công Tráng, 46A
