Day 1Markets, museums and spies
Set off early with “Saigon highlights: from the market to the river”, from the Ben Thanh Market clock to the Opera House and the Hotel Majestic, and pick up a bánh mì at Như Lan by the Bitexco. Spend the hottest hours, and the downpour if it's the season, indoors: the Fine Arts Museum is a short walk from the market, and the City Museum a few blocks from the Opera House. As the light fades, “Spies, dragons and weeping statues” starts at the Hotel Continental, passes Turtle Lake and ends in Tân Định, near the bánh xèo on Đinh Công Tráng.
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Morning
Saigon highlights: from the market to the river
- Ben Thanh Market (Chợ Bến Thành)The 1914 market whose clock is the city's unofficial symbol, built on top of an old marsh.
- Bitexco Financial TowerA 262-metre skyscraper inspired by a lotus bud, with a helipad jutting out halfway up.
- Nguyễn Huệ BoulevardA canal that became a boulevard and, in 2015, the city's great pedestrian square, with an apartment block full of cafés.
- Saigon Opera House (Nhà hát Thành phố)A theatre of 1900 inspired by the Petit Palais in Paris, which served as South Vietnam's parliament and became a theatre again in 1976.
- Hotel MajesticThe hotel the tycoon Hui Bon Hoa opened in 1925 on the riverfront, where the old rue Catinat ends.
- Mê Linh Square and Bạch Đằng WharfA square that has changed statues several times, and a general who since 1967 has been pointing at the river.
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Lunch
Try Bánh mì at Bánh mì Như Lan. Đường Hàm Nghi, 50
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Afternoon
Fine Arts Museum
It fills the mansion that the family of tycoon Hui Bon Hoa, the man behind the Hotel Majestic, built in the early 1930s, complete with stained glass and tiled floors. Inside you'll find Vietnamese lacquer and silk painting and ancient sculpture. It's a few minutes' walk from Ben Thanh Market.
DirectionsCity Museum (Gia Long Palace)
A neoclassical palace from the late nineteenth century, designed by Alfred Foulhoux, which became President Ngô Đình Diệm's residence after the presidential palace was bombed in 1962. Today it tells Saigon's story, and its staircases are the city's favourite backdrop for wedding photos.
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Early evening
Spies, dragons and weeping statues
- Hotel ContinentalFor a century, Saigon's oldest hotel was the best place to find out everything, and for others to find out about you.
- 22 Gia Long Street (22 Lý Tự Trọng)The rooftop in the most famous photo of the fall of Saigon, which for decades was thought to have been taken at the US embassy.
- The weeping Virgin (Notre-Dame Cathedral)A Carrara marble statue, a pedestal left empty for fourteen years and tears that drew thousands of people in 2005.
- Turtle Lake (Hồ Con Rùa)A roundabout with a 1960s monument and a geomantic legend: a turtle to hold down a dragon's tail.
- Jade Emperor Pagoda (Chùa Ngọc Hoàng)A Cantonese temple full of smoke, turtles and fertility goddesses which, according to a Vietnamese scholar, also hosted secret meetings.
- Trần Hưng Đạo TempleThe temple of the general who defeated the Mongols, turned by popular devotion into a saint who can drive away evil spirits.
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Dinner
Try Bánh xèo at Bánh xèo 46A. Đường Đinh Công Tráng, 46A
